Category Archives: Travel

Mexico with Kids

Mexico › Family Vacations
Updated: March 3, 2022

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The 5 Best Destinations for Families in Mexico

1. Tulum

Tulum is my favorite place in Mexico (with kids or without). Cool town, great restaurants, and wonderful beach. Some people don’t like that the town and beach are a few miles apart but I like the distinction and the bike path between the two makes the commute enjoyable. Most people stay at the beach and go into town for the occasional meal or to do some shopping.

Tulum beach.

Tacos

Tacos.

Tacos.

The Pueblo

The Pueblo.

Coba near Tulum.

Coba near Tulum.

Coba.

Coba.

Bus with kids.

Tulum bus station. Over a certain height you pay an adult fare on the bus. Your age doesn’t matter.

Breakfast.

Breakfast on the Tulum beach.

Tulum beach.

Tulum beach.

Cooking course in Tulum.

Cooking course in Tulum.

Cenote near Tulum

Cenote near Tulum.

Bikes in Tulum.

Returning our bikes then heading for the bus.

Biking Tulum beach.

Biking along the beach road in Tulum.

Snacks for the bus to Tulum.

Snacks for the bus to Tulum.

2. Isla Mujeres

Playa Norte (North Beach) is the most kid-friendly beach in Mexico. Soft sand, gentle waves, and clear shallow water make for an idyllic setting. There are good restaurants spread along a pedestrian-only avenue in the lively (but not crazy) main town. Most locals and tourists get around the island by golf cart.

Jumping from a bridge on Isla Mujeres.

Jumping from a bridge on Isla Mujeres. (There’s good snorkeling beneath the bridge.)

Ferry to Isla Mujeres.

Arriving in Isla Mujeres on the ferry from Cancun.

Getting around by golf car in Isla Mujeres.

Golf carts are the main form of transportation on Isla Mujeres.

Tacos in Isla Mujeres.

Tacos in Isla Mujeres.

Biking in Isla Mujeres.

Biking in Isla Mujeres.

North Beach in Isla Mujeres.

North Beach in Isla Mujeres.

3. Puerto Vallarta

Very cool city with a mix of touristy fun and authentic Mexican culture. Several smaller beach towns are within an hour by car or boat: Yelapa, Mismaloya, Bucerias, and Sayulita. All great places to stay or visit.

Puerto Vallarta.

Puerto Vallarta.

Puerto Vallarta

Tacos and Torta in Puerto Vallarta.

Puerto Vallarta Museum.

Naval Museum in Puerto Vallarta.

Puerto Vallarta.

Treats in Puerto Vallarta.

Puerto Vallarta

Puerto Vallarta beach.

Puerto Vallarta

The Malecon in Puerto Vallarta.

Puerto Vallarta

Puerto Vallarta

Puerto Vallarta

Puerto Vallarta beach.

Puerto Vallarta

Puerto Vallarta

Water park near Puerto Vallarta.

Water park near Puerto Vallarta.

Bucerias with young kids.

Bucerias.

Sayulita.

A donut truck in Sayulita.

Sayulita.

Heading for the beach in Sayulita.

Kids in Sayulita.

Sayulita beach.

Surf lessons in Sayulita.

Surf lessons in Sayulita.

Sayulita tacos.

Tacos in Sayulita.

Sayulita beach.

Sayulita.

Sayulita beach.

Sayulita.

Puerto Vallarta

Waiting for the bus near Sayulita.

Yelapa.

Parasailing in Yelapa.

Yelapa

Yelapa

Yelapa

Yelapa

Waiting for the bus.

Waiting for the bus near Mismaloya.

Yelapa boat.

Taking the boat from Mismaloya to Yelapa.

Mismaloya.

Mismaloya.

Mismaloya.

Mismaloya.

4. Cancun

Lots of big family-friendly resorts with water slides, kids clubs, and huge pools. The area itself doesn’t have a lot of character but the beaches are great and there are good day trips within easy reach.

Cancun beach.

Cancun.

Tacos in Cancun.

Tacos in Cancun.

Shopping in Cancun.

Shopping in Cancun.

Cancun night market.

Cancun night market.

Shopping in downtown Cancun.

Shopping in downtown Cancun.

Cancun night market.

Cancun night market.

Cenote near Cancun.

Cenote near Cancun.

Chichen Itza.

Chichen Itza near Cancun.

Street food in Vallodolid near Cancun.

Street food in Vallodolid – an easy day trip from Cancun.

Cancun hotel.

At the hotel in Cancun.

Cancun beach.

Cancun beach.

Cancun bus station.

Cancun bus station.

Arriving at the Cancun airport.

The Cancun airport.

Xel Ha water park near Cancun.

Xel Ha water park near Cancun.

Cancun.

Cancun.

Cancun hotel with water slides.

Cancun.

Cancun hotel with pool.

Cancun.

5. Los Cabos

A fun destination with great resorts and lots of charm, fantastic food, and local-culture if you seek them out.

Los Cabos with kids.

Downtown Cabo San Lucas.

Resort in Cabo San Lucas.

Cabo San Lucas Beach.

Cabo San Lucas Beach.

Fresh fruit in Los Cabos.

Tacos in Los Cabos.

Tacos in Los Cabos.

Tacos in Los Cabos.

Restaurant in San Jose del Cabo.

Restaurant in San José del Cabo.

At the hotel in Los Cabos.

At the hotel in Los Cabos.

At the hotel in Los Cabos.

At the hotel in Los Cabos.

Swimming with dolphins in Los Cabos.

Swimming with dolphins in Los Cabos.

Cooking course in Los Cabos.

Cooking course in San José del Cabo.

Cooking course in San José del Cabo.

Cooking course in San José del Cabo.

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Zacatecas Travel Guide

Mexico › Zacatecas
Updated: March 3, 2022

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Zacatecas is one of our favorite historic Mexican cities, a colonial gem crammed with gorgeous old buildings, churches, and museums. It’s setting in a valley between two hills is spectacular, and there are also tours of the old silver mines and a cable car ride high over the rooftops. Wandering its cobbled streets and leafy plazas, it’s easy to feel transported back to classical Spain.

View from Cerro De La Buffa mountain

View from Cerro De La Buffa mountain, with beaded folk art and jewelry for sale and a view of the city of Zacatecas below, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Frequently Asked Questions about Zacatecas

Where is Zacatecas?

Zacatecas is a city in the central region of Mexico known as the Bajío and is the capital of the eponymous state of Zacatecas. Zacatecas lies around 600 km northwest of Mexico City, 300 km northeast of Guadalajara, and 560 km southwest of Monterrey.

Non-stop flights to Zacatecas take 1 hour 25 minutes from Mexico City, 2 hours 20 minutes from Dallas, 2 hours 40 minutes from Tijuana, 2 hours 55 minutes from Los Angeles, and 3 hours 50 minutes from Chicago.

How big is Zacatecas?

Zacatecas has a greater metro population of almost 140,000. The city lies on the edge of the Sierra Madre Occidental and covers some 444 square kilometers.

What is the history of Zacatecas?

The indigenous Zacatecos mined silver and precious metals in the hills here long before the arrival of the Spanish, but it didn’t take long for the conquistadors to grasp the area’s potential. The modern city was initially founded as a Spanish mining camp in 1548, with the Zacatecos quickly subdued. For the next three hundred years, the silver mines of Zacatecas enriched the city, Mexico, and the Spanish Empire. During the Mexican Revolution in 1914, Zacatecas was the scene of fierce fighting when Pancho Villa’s División del Norte captured the city, completely annihilating the forces of Victoriano Huerta. Today Zacatecas is flourishing once more, its economy boosted by increasing trade between Mexico and the USA.

Palace of the Governor

A plaza downtown outside of the Palace of the Governor, with the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption behind.

How do I get to Zacatecas?

Convenient non-stop flights connect Zacatecas with Chicago, Dallas, and Los Angeles in the US. There are also non-stop flights to Tijuana airport, which is directly accessible from the US border near San Diego. Otherwise, most other flights route through Mexico City (there are no non-stop flights from Canada or Europe).

Zacatecas airport is 27km north of the city center. The only way to get into the center is by taxi; airport taxis charge a fixed rate of around M$400 (ask the hotel to arrange one for the trip back).

Within Mexico, first-class long-distance buses are an economical and comfortable alternative to flying – to Zacatecas, there are frequent long-distance bus services to the cities of northern Mexico, the Bajío, and Mexico City (6–8hr).

Can I use Uber in Zacatecas?

Assuming phones have roaming, and the app works, Uber is available in Zacatecas and can save up to 50 percent on journeys to and from the airport, though drivers may be reluctant to pick-up thanks to hostility from the airport taxi union. Email the hotel for advice on the latest situation. Once in the city itself, there should be no problems using Uber.

Can I drive to Zacatecas?

Driving down to Zacatecas from the US border is relatively straightforward, and plenty of Americans and Canadians take their own vehicles – the main highways are good, and virtually empty outside the cities. However, care should be taken in choosing a route, as the Mexican border states suffer from high levels of drug violence – driving at night should definitely be avoided. Foreign vehicles also need a Mexican “Temporary Importation of Vehicle Permit”, arranged at the border.

From Laredo, Texas the drive is around 422 miles (679 km) and takes around 9 hours non-stop. Zacatecas is 765 miles (1231 km) from El Paso, Texas (15 hours), and 1370 miles (2205 km) from San Diego, California.

vibrant city street

A pedestrian street in the vibrant city center.

Do I need a car in Zacatecas?

Cars are not necessary in Zacatecas. Once in town, it should be able to get around on foot, though taxis (and Uber cars) are easy to find. Meters in regular taxis start at 11 pesos (minimum 25 pesos for rides in the center).

When is the best time to go to Zacatecas?

Zacatecas lies at well over 2000 meters (6562 ft) above sea level, and experiences relatively dry, mild weather year-round. March through May tend to be the best months to visit – sunny, warm, and dry. June through October can be rainy, and winters tend to be cooler. As always, avoid Christmas, Easter, and all major Mexican holidays to avoid the crowds (it’s a popular destination for Mexican domestic tourists).

Where should I stay in Zacatecas?

Aim to stay in the atmospheric center of old Zacatecas, close to all the sights, best restaurants, and attractions. Motel chains have sprung up around the city, near the major highways, and can offer good rates, but these are all a long way from the action and it can be hassle shuttling back and forth.

Some of our favorites places to stay include the lavish but surprisingly affordable Hotel Emporio, the colonial Mesón de Jobito and luxurious Santa Rita del Arte.

For something really special, stay at the Quinta Real, tastefully incorporated what was once Zacatecas’ bullring. The best of the budget accommodation is no-frills Hostel Villa Colonial (Primero de Mayo 201, at Callejón Mono Prieto + 52 492 925 0749)

Zacatecas Cathedral

The facade of the Zacatecas Cathedral.

What are the best things to do in Zacatecas?

Start by simply wandering the cobbled streets and historic colonial plazas of Zacatecas. The city’s gorgeous, pink sandstone cathedral is one of the best examples of Mexican Baroque architecture in the country. Nearby, the old market, Mercado González Ortega, has been converted into a chic shopping mall. As befits such a historic city, Zacatecas is also crammed with absorbing museums. The Museo Pedro Coronel (Plazuela de Santo Domingo) showcases the modern, abstract, and Catalan art collected by local artist Pedro Coronel (including work by Picasso and Miró). Pedro’s brother Rafael founded his own beautiful museum, the Museo Rafael Coronel (Callejón de San Francisco 65), set in an old Franciscan mission and built around a vast collection of traditional masks.

The Museo Zacatecano (Dr. Ignacio Hierro 307), housed in the old mint, chronicles the history of the region, while the Museo de Arte Abstracto Manuel Felguérez (Cristóbal Colón) displays the abstract paintings and sculpture of local artist Manuel Felguérez, inside a converted prison. The Museo Francisco Goitia (Enrique Estrada 102) highlights the work of yet another Zacatecan artist, Francisco Goitia.

The mining history of Zacatecas is the focus at the fascinating Mina El Edén, where guided tours take you deep inside the city’s old silver mine.

Once done with the city sights, take the Teleférico (cable car) up to the Cerro de la Bufa, the huge rock that dominates the city, for spectacular views and the Museo de la Toma de Zacatecas, which recounts Pancho Villa’s desperate attack in 1914. There’s also a decent zipline up here, Tirolesa 840.

What are the best things to do around Zacatecas?

Zacatecas makes a good base to explore the surrounding area. Highlights include the traditional silversmiths at the Centro Platero de Zacatecas and the ornately decorated church in neighboring Guadalupe, the ruins of the great Mesoamerican fortress at La Quemada (56 km south of Zacatecas), and the picturesque town of Jerez (53 km west of Zacatecas). Buses link all these sites with the city, though it’s best to take a guided tour to visit La Quemada (easily arranged at the hotel).

The view from the Cerro de la Bufa hilltop above the city.

What are the restaurants like in Zacatecas?

Zacatecas restaurants are good – primarily Mexican food, though standard American dishes (burgers and the like) and Italian food are widely available. The local specialties include “asado de boda” (braised pork with chocolate and orange zest), and anything “zacatecano”, usually involving a sauce of poblano chilies and cream. We love Acrópolis, an old-world café with its own impressive art collection, and cozy Dorados de Villa (on Plazuela de García), which knocks out excellent moles and enchiladas. The best place for a relaxing coffee (and free wi-fi) is Il San Patrizio Caffé (Hidalgo 403). For a splurge, book a table overlooking the old bullring at La Plaza, in the Quinta Real hotel.

What currency is used in Zacatecas?

The Mexican peso (often prefixed with a “$” sign) is the currency of Mexico and Zacatecas. Most major shops and restaurants in Zacatecas accept credit cards, but it is a good idea to have some peso cash on hand for entry fees and small purchases like bottled water and snacks. ATMs are easy to find in central Zacatecas – and generally get a better exchange rate here or inside banks than at currency exchange booths.

Is Zacatecas expensive?

Zacatecas is not expensive. Hotels in Zacatecas are reasonably priced given their quality, and eating out is rarely expensive. Transportation is inexpensive and fees to enter museums are low, typically one or two US dollars equivalent (tours of the mine and trips on the cable car are closer to US$5).

Is Zacatecas safe?

Zacatecas has generally avoided the drug violence that has affected other parts of Mexico making it a safe destination to visit. US State Department travel warnings generally apply to the western part of the state of Zacatecas (south of Highway 45 and west of Highway 23) and not the city itself. Take the usual precautions, especially at night, and keep valuables in room safes.

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Veracruz Travel Guide

Mexico › Veracruz
Updated: March 3, 2022

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Boats around Lake Catemaco, Veracruz, Mexico.

Veracruz is a major port and popular resort city on the eastern, Gulf Coast of Mexico, and one of our absolute favorite places to go in the country. Veracruz is best known for its rich history, tropical setting, charming old town, raucous nightlife, and the biggest aquarium in Latin America.

Frequently Asked Questions about Veracruz

Where is Veracruz?

Veracruz is a port on the Gulf of Mexico and the largest city in the Mexican state of Veracruz. It lies around 90 km southeast of the state capital Xalapa, 420 km east of Mexico City, and 270 km east of Puebla. Non-stop flights to Veracruz take just 55 minutes from Mexico City, 1 hour 35 minutes from Monterrey, 2 hours 15 minutes from Houston, and 3 hours 20 minutes from Tijuana.

heroica downtown aerial view

The historic downtown area of the port city of Heroica.

How big is Veracruz?

Veracruz has a greater metro population of just over 700,000. The city and busiest resort area stretches some 20km north to south along the Gulf of Mexico, from the port to the Jamapa River.

What is the history of Veracruz?

Veracruz (officially “Heroica Veracruz”), is one of the most historic cities in Mexico. Once part of the Aztec Empire, the city was the first to be founded by the Spanish in Mexico, just after Hernán Cortés’ fateful arrival in 1519. Cortés and his conquistadors waded ashore and made camp here, but the city was relocated up the coast a couple of times before settling on its current location in 1589. Veracruz subsequently became a crucial port city, the main link between Mexico and Spain – as a consequence the English, Dutch, and French frequently attacked its shipping throughout the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. In the Mexican War of Independence, Veracruz was the last part of the country held by the Spanish, and in the Mexican–American War (1846–48), US troops occupied the city and marched on to capture the capital. In 1861 the French invaded Mexico through the port of Veracruz, and in 1914 US troops returned to occupy the city during the Mexican Revolution. Since then, the city has flourished as Mexico’s biggest port and a key petroleum-refining hub (there are major oil fields offshore).

Pico de Orizaba

‘Pico de Orizaba’ is the tallest mountain in Mexico and 3rd tallest in North America.

How do I get to Veracruz?

Veracruz is connected to the US by three weekly non-stop flights from Houston on United, but its airport otherwise serves Mexican domestic destinations only; Cancún, Guadalajara, Mexico City, and Tijuana among them. All other flights from Canada, the US, and Europe route through Houston or Mexico City.

Veracruz airport is about 10km south of the city; it’s simple and convenient to take a taxi from here into the center (around 300 pesos; pay in advance at the taxi desk in the terminal).

Within Mexico, first-class long-distance buses are an economical and comfortable alternative to flying – buses to Veracruz from Puebla (3 hours) and Mexico City (5 hours 30 minutes) operate hourly. Veracruz bus station is about 3km from the city center. Arriving there it’s best to take a taxi – these follow a fixed-rate system, with the current rates displayed at the exit. Buy a ticket from the dedicated booth before getting in (around 45 to 50 pesos).

Can I use Uber in Veracruz?

Currently Uber does not operate in Veracruz.

Can I drive to Veracruz?

Driving down to Veracruz from the US border is relatively straightforward – the main highways are good, and virtually empty outside the towns. However, the Mexican border states of Nuevo León and Tamaulipas have been affected by drug cartel violence – driving at night is definitely a bad idea. Check the latest travel advisories at travel.state.gov or ask the hotel. Drivers also need a Mexican “Temporary Importation of Vehicle Permit”.

From Brownsville, Texas the drive is around 590 miles (950 km) and takes around 13 hours non-stop.

Renting a car is much easier to do on the Mexican side of the border, as taking US rental vehicles into Mexico comes with all sorts of restrictions.

Church of San Miguel Arcangel

The paper balloon festival in front of the Church of San Miguel Arcangel.

Do I need a car in Veracruz?

Most of the historic center of Veracruz can be explored on foot; for the beaches and attractions further afield it’s easy and cheap to take a taxi or a bus (navigating the congested roads of Veracruz can be a real headache in any case). Taxis are easy to hail on the street (hotels will also call them) – always fix the price in advance before getting in (there are no meters). The minimum fare is 35 pesos, but trips in the center will rarely top 50 pesos. Buses for the beaches (labeled “Boca del Río”, “Playas” or “Mocambo”) run along Zaragoza Street close to the zócalo (main square). Local buses charge a flat fare of 9 pesos (expected to increase by a few pesos in the coming year).

When is the best time to go to Veracruz?

During the dry season, from November to May – Veracruz is a tropical city but temperatures at this time are more comfortable and less humid. To get the best hotel rates and to avoid the crowds, skip Veracruz during Christmas, Easter, or the Veracruz Carnival (Feb/March), when the city is mobbed by domestic tourists. The hot, humid wet season runs from June to October – hotel rates can be cheaper, but exploring the city is miserable at this time.

What are the main resort areas in Veracruz?

The historic city center of Veracruz (“Centro Histórico”) fronts the port and marina, and most of the resort hotels lie along the beaches further south, linked by Bulevar María Ávila Camacho. The closest beaches to the center are Playa Villa del Mar and neighboring Playa Hornos and Playa Martí: it’s not great for swimming here (the water is not clean), but there is plenty of seafood and boat trips are offered to Cancuncito and the Isla de Sacrificios, just offshore. Further south, Costa de Oro is home to several major resorts, though the beaches here are also fairly scrappy. Playa Mocambo is much better, a kilometer south, with beach bars, a small water park, and lots of decent hotels. At the end of the strip, 3.5 km south of Mocambo, lies Boca del Río at the mouth of the River Jamapa. There are more long, grey-sand beaches here, but the main attractions are the town’s riverfront seafood restaurants and boat trips upstream into the jungle.

Lake Catemaco plaza

Market on the plaza in front of the Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Carmen in Catemoc.

What are the best beaches in Veracruz?

Our favorite beach in Veracruz is Playa Mocambo – it’s by far the nicest stretch of sand and is the best for swimming. Playa Martí is closer to the center and is a fun spot to watch local beach volleyball and soccer matches. Playa Hornos is the best place for watersports.

Where should I stay in Veracruz?

We would recommend somewhere in the Old Center of Veracruz, the “Centro Histórico”, to make the most of the nightlife, sights, best restaurants and attractions. While it’s true that the hotels here tend to be more old-fashioned, the resort hotels along the beaches are quite a long way from the action – and Veracruz isn’t known for its beaches in any case (they are not Mexico’s best). Staying in the city center it’s relatively easy to take a taxi or bus out to the beaches for the day. On the other hand, those that prefer a few hours of sightseeing followed by every afternoon on the beach may want to check out the resorts in the coastal “hotel zone”.

In the city center, we like the Hotel Emporio, which combines a central location with excellent amenities and a pool overlooking the harbor. The Hotel Veracruz Centro Histórico and Hotel Baluarte are other excellent choices in the center. Hotel Indigo Boca del Rio is a chic, contemporary option close to Playa Mocambo, as is the Collection O Hotel Mocambo, a beautifully renovated hotel from 1932.

What are the best things to do in Veracruz?

Veracruz has an energy and cultural identity unlike any other Mexican resort city.

The old heart of the city is its main plaza, known as the Zócalo. Dominated by the city’s beautiful cathedral, the Zócalo is the perfect place to sip local mint juleps and listen to marimba bands (based around a giant wooden xylophone), as well as mariachi and norteño music. Similarly lively in the evenings, the malecón (harbourfront promenade) features street vendors, buskers, and “dancing” fountains. The city’s biggest conventional attraction is the Acuario de Veracruz, the huge aquarium, though there are also plenty of historic sights. Get oriented at the Museo de la Ciudad, a museum that chronicles the history of the city, and the Museo Histórico Naval, which charts Mexican naval history from the Mesoamerican period to the modern-day. It’s also possible to visit the city’s once-formidable Spanish fortifications: the 17th-century Baluarte de Santiago and the ruined Castillo de San Juan de Ulúa, complete with creepy dungeon.

Though the beaches of Veracruz (see above) are not the best in Mexico, they can make for a relaxing day in the sun. Snorkeling and diving trips out to the nearby islands are also fun: Cancuncito is a tiny sandbank in crystal-clear waters, while the Isla de Sacrificios is off-limits but surrounded by enticing snorkeling sites, and La Blanquilla, Isla Verde, and Anegada de Adentro are all reef sites just 20 minutes ride from the beach. Recommended operators include Mundo Submarino and Scubaver. Monkey Fish is another excellent operator that can arrange kayaking, paddleboarding, sandboarding, and snorkeling. Armonia Rafting can arrange whitewater rafting in nearby Jalcomulco.

What are the restaurants like in Veracruz?

Veracruz is well-known throughout Mexico for its cuisine, with its signature dish, Huachinango a la Veracruzana (red snapper Veracruz-style), available almost everywhere. Other local specialties include pulpo a la marinera (octopus), arroz a la tumbada (local seafood rice, a bit like paella), empanadas de camarón (shrimp empanadas), and jaiba, a large Gulf crab. The local coffee, fruits, and vanilla are also worth sampling, and all the seafood is fabulous.

Another pleasure in Veracruz is hanging out in its old colonial cafés – always lively and ringing with the sound of spoons clinking against glasses (the traditional way to call for a refill). Gran Café del Portal (Independencia 1187) and Café de la Parroquia (Gómez Farías 34) are the two most famous and our favorite spots to enjoy breakfast. For a treat, we like the contemporary Mexican food at Restaurante Fussion (Av. 1º de Mayo 632).

Tlacotalpan plaza at night

Enjoying an evening on the plaza in Tlacotalpan.

What currency is used in Veracruz?

The Mexican peso (often prefixed with a “$” sign) is the currency of Mexico and Veracruz. Most major shops and restaurants in Veracruz accept credit cards, but it is a good idea to have some peso cash on hand for bus/taxi trips, museum entry, and small purchases like bottled water and snacks. ATMs are easy to find in Veracruz around the junction of Independencia and Benito Juárez.

Is Veracruz expensive?

Hotels in Veracruz are reasonably priced, and food and drink is a good value. All beaches are open to the public and free to visit, buses and taxis are cheap, and budget Airbnb deals are also a viable option.

Is Veracruz safe?

Veracruz has generally avoided the drug violence that has affected other parts of Mexico. Take the usual precautions, especially at night, and keep valuables in room safes. Theft of personal items from beaches does happen – never leave anything of value unattended, even on seemingly empty stretches of sand.

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San Miguel de Allende Travel Guide

Mexico › San Miguel de Allende
Updated: March 2, 2022

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San Miguel de allende cobblestone streets

San Miguel de Allende is famous for its colorful cobblestones streets.

Frequently Asked Questions About San Miguel de Allende

Where is San Miguel de Allende?

San Miguel de Allende is located in the eastern part of Guanajuato, a state in central Mexico. With an elevation of just over 6,233 ft. (1,900m), it is one of the most visited cities in the country. It’s about 170 miles from Mexico City (273 km) and 39 miles from Querétaro (61 km).

How big is San Miguel de Allende?

San Miguel de Allende occupies an area of about 950 miles, which represents only 5% of the entity’s territory. Its population is around 70,000 people and over 20% of its inhabitants are foreigners, with at least half of these coming from the United States. This is a city that’s popular with expats.

What is the history of San Miguel de Allende?

In 1542 the Franciscan friar Fray Juan de San Miguel founded the town of San Miguel el Grande. In 1826 it reached the rank of ‘city’ and changed its name to the current one, in honor of Ignacio Allende, known as one of the heroes of the Mexican Independence. Since the 1950s, it has become a popular tourist destination among American tourists who spend long seasons in it or have made it their home.

How do I get to San Miguel de Allende?

There are two major airports near San Miguel de Allende. The Mexico City airport is almost four hours (168 miles) away and the one in Querétaro is 55 miles —just over an hour and twenty minutes— away by car. The former has flights and connections from practically all over the world, and the main national airlines operate in the latter, as well as some from the United States, such as American Airlines and United Airlines.

church facade

The facade of the iconic Parroquia De San Miguel Arcangel Cathedral in the center of the city.

When is the best time to go to San Miguel de Allende?

The temperature in San Miguel de Allende oscillates between 72 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit all year round, so practically any time is good to schedule a visit. However, the city is much more enjoyable between November and April since rain is scarce during these months. One of the most festive dates to spend in San Miguel is September 15, since this is when the anniversary of the Mexican Independence is celebrated and the city played an important role in it.

What neighborhoods should I visit in San Miguel de Allende?

The historic center of San Miguel de Allende shouldn’t be missed on account of its spectacular colonial buildings. This area houses many of the city’s main attractions, such as churches, markets, and museums. It’s also a good idea to visit Los Frailes, one of the city’s fanciest neighborhoods, as it offers views of the lake, the mountains, and of beautiful sunsets. La Candelaria, an exclusive country club-style development, is just a 5-minute drive from the city center and it’s where the city lights can best be appreciated at night.

Where should I stay in San Miguel de Allende?

The best area of San Miguel de Allende to stay in is around the Parroquia de San Miguel Arcangel, in the center of the city. Being a city devoted to tourism, there are plenty of accommodations to suit all budgets. The most expensive and exclusive hotels are the Rosewood, Live Aqua, L’Ôtel at Dôce18, Matilda, and Casa de Sierra Nevada. Other excellent and slightly more accessible options are Hacienda El Santuario, Ilo Rojo and Hacienda Los Picachos. In addition, very good accommodation options can be found on Airbnb.

San Miguel de allende folkloric dancers

Dancers in pre-Hispanic costumes performing in the city center.

How do I get around in San Miguel de Allende?

Most of San Miguel de Allende’s points of interest are located in the center of town and the first square of the city, so it’s best to explore them on foot. It’s highly recommended to wear comfortable shoes on account of the cobblestone streets. An attractive option for visitors is to get on the tourist tram that runs through the historical points of the city for approximately 1 and a half hours. It’s also relatively easy to find a taxi on the main streets and it’s advisable to negotiate the price with the driver before boarding it. Another option is to use Uber services.

What are the best things to do in San Miguel de Allende?

Visiting the Parroquia de San Miguel Arcangel, the emblem of the city, is the number one activity for any first-timer to San Miguel de Allende. Other highly recommended activities are walking along Aldama Street, the most beautiful in town, taking pictures of the views from El Mirador, and visiting the handicraft market and La Aurora, an old textile factory converted into a cultural and design center with galleries, workshops, and restaurants.

How many days should I spend in San Miguel de Allende?

San Miguel de Allende is a beautiful city with many tourist attractions and a renowned culinary scene, so it’s best to allocate at least two days to visit it. In its surrounding areas, there is an archaeological zone, a botanical garden, an adventure park, and a sanctuary, among many other interesting activities, so there is always something to do even if the stay lasts a week.

What currency is used in San Miguel de Allende?

The official currency of the country is the Mexican peso, which is why it’s used in San Miguel de Allende. Being a city with many foreigners, visitors, and residents alike, in many businesses they accept US dollars, although the exchange rate offered will not be as favorable as the official rate. The average exchange rate is about $20.50 pesos per US dollar. It’s best to withdraw cash from an ATM for street purchases and to pay with a credit card in hotels, restaurants, and galleries.

San Miguel de allende bridge with hanging plants

The streets of San Miguel are full of beautiful flowers and vegetation.

Should I tip in San Miguel de Allende?

In Mexico, there is a culture of tipping and it’s deeply rooted in places as touristy as San Miguel de Allende. In bars and restaurants, it’s normal to leave between 10% and 15%. There is no standard for tour guides, but $5-10 is recommended. It’s also advisable to leave the housekeeper a tip at the end of a hotel stay.

Is San Miguel de Allende expensive?

Prices in San Miguel de Allende are higher than in other colonial cities around the country, but visitors can make their stay as expensive or as cheap as they wish given that there are options for all budgets. Travelers arriving from the United States, Canada, or a European country are likely to find it as an affordable destination.

What should I eat in San Miguel de Allende?

The culinary scene in San Miguel de Allende is very interesting. Restaurants serving international and fusion cuisine stand out the most and among the ones that visitors should try are: Quince, with its spectacular terrace, La Parada, offering Peruvian cuisine as good as the one served in Lima, Luna Rooftop, specialized in tapas, and Áperi, which works only with local producers to guarantee the food’s freshness.

Is San Miguel de Allende safe?

San Miguel de Allende is one of the most important tourist destinations in the country so the authorities take great care of safety in the region. However, it’s important for visitors to follow the basic recommendations found anywhere, such as not going out with flashy jewelry or a lot of cash and taking care of belongings in public places.

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San Luis Potosí Travel Guide

Mexico › San Luis Potosí
Updated: March 2, 2022

See Also

San Luis Potosí is another less-visited gem that’s one of our favorite cities in the Bajío. Dripping with historic charm, the old center is known for its colonial churches, hotels, and enticing art museums.

Frequently Asked Questions about San Luis Potosí

Where is San Luis Potosí?

San Luis Potosí is the capital city of the Mexican state of San Luis Potosí, in the region of central Mexico known as the Bajío.

The city lies about 400 km northwest of Mexico City, 330 km northeast of Guadalajara, and 175 km north of San Miguel de Allende. Non-stop flights to San Luis Potosí take 1 hour 15 minutes from Mexico City, 1 hour 55 minutes from Houston, 2 hours from Dallas, 2 hours 10 minutes from Cancún, and 2 hours 40 minutes from Tijuana.

How big is San Luis Potosí?

San Luis Potosí has a greater metro population of just over 1.2 million, with the main part of the city covering a circular area some 14km across.

What is the history of San Luis Potosí?

Built on land once inhabited by the Chichimeca, San Luis Potosí traces its roots to the foundation of a Franciscan mission in the 1580s, but the city was formally established in 1592 as a supply camp for nearby gold and silver mines. The city grew rapidly, becoming one of the wealthiest and most beautiful in Mexico. San Luis is still prosperous today – most of the silver is gone but working mines churn out zinc and lead – with a considerable modern industrial base.

How do I get to San Luis Potosí?

San Luis Potosí is connected to Tijuana, Dallas, and Houston by non-stop flights, plus several other cities within Mexico. Most flights from Canada or Europe route through the US or Mexico City. The airport is around 25km north of downtown. Take a taxi into the city (pay at the dedicated kiosks before you get in, credit cards accepted). Rates are set according to a zone system, with most trips around 350 pesos.

Within Mexico, first-class long-distance buses are an economical and comfortable alternative to flying – buses to San Luis Potosí from Monterrey (6 hours) and Mexico City (5 to 6 hours) operate hourly. The city’s bus station, the Terminal Terrestre Potosina (or TTP), is around 3km east of the city center on Hwy-57; take a taxi to your hotel (buy a ticket before you leave the bus station, around 50 pesos).

Can I use Uber in San Luis Potosí?

Uber does operate in San Luis Potosí (assuming phones have roaming, and the app works), but drivers can be reluctant to pick-up from the airport due to hostility from the airport taxi union. However, you should be able to get an Uber back to the airport for as low as 150 pesos. Once in the city, getting an Uber should be no problem, though rates are comparable with regular taxis (and more expensive during rush hour).

Can I drive to San Luis Potosí?

Driving to San Luis Potosí from down from the US border is relatively straightforward – the main highways are good, and virtually empty outside the towns. However, the Mexican border states of Nuevo León and Tamaulipas have been affected by drug cartel violence – driving at night is definitely a bad idea. Check the latest travel advisories at travel.state.gov or ask your hotel. You’ll also need a Mexican “Temporary Importation of Vehicle Permit”.

From Brownsville, Texas the drive is around 410 miles (660 km) and takes around 8 hours non-stop. San Luis Potosí is also 535 miles (860 km) from Laredo, Texas (8 to 9 hours).

If you are renting a vehicle, it’s much easier to do this once across the Mexican border, as taking US rental vehicles into Mexico comes with all sorts of restrictions.

Do I need a car in San Luis Potosí?

You can explore most of the city center of San Luis Potosí on foot making cars unnecessary; if you’d rather not walk, call an Uber or take a local taxi (all taxis have meters and are easy to hale on the street). The city has an excellent public bus system (fares 9.80 pesos) but you are unlikely to need it.

When is the best time to go to San Luis Potosí?

San Luis Potosí boasts a year-round temperate climate, with the driest and sunniest months October to April. Rain is most common June to September. There’s no real “bad” time to visit, though it can actually get chilly December to January. March through June is probably best, when the weather is pleasantly warm, the days generally dry, and crowds low-key.

Where should I stay in San Luis Potosí?

Right in the historic heart of San Luis Potosí (the centro histórico) is the best place to stay, close to all the sights, best restaurants, and attractions. Modern business hotels and cheaper motels line the highways on the outskirts of the city, but these are all a long way from the action and it can be hassle shuttling back and forwards. We love Santosí by Inmense, a lavish contemporary conversion of an old colonial mansion.

For a real treat stay at the Museo Palacio de San Agustín, a luxury hotel carved out of a Spanish-era monastery. We also like the budget Hikuri Eco Hostal, a hostel housed in another beautiful colonial building incorporating lots of recycled materials.

What are the best things to do in San Luis Potosí?

The best things to do in San Luis Potosí is to soak up the city’s colonial charm and history, and take in some of the museums. Sip coffee at an outdoor café and take in the scene on San Luis Potosí’s main square, the Plaza de Armas (aka Jardín Hidalgo), also the location of the city’s impressive 18th-century cathedral. The best of the city’s huge cache of colonial churches is the Templo del Carmen in nearby Plaza del Carmen, with a multicolored tiled dome and ornate Baroque façade.

Like many cities in the Bajío, San Luis Potosí is crammed with absorbing museums. The best of the bunch is the Museo Nacional de la Máscara, a grand mansion now a museum dedicated to the art of making masks, everything from pre-Hispanic pieces to Spanish-style masks still worn during fiestas today. Also worth checking out is the Museo Federico Silva, a showcase for the work of Federico Silva, one of Mexico’s most beloved sculptors, and the Museo Regional Potosino on Plaza de Aranzazú, which chronicles the history of San Luis Potosí state. Just outside the center (but still walkable), the Centro de las Artes is an arts center built inside the former state prison. Revolving art exhibitions take place here, but you can also see the cell where ex-president Francisco Madero was held in 1910. Also here, the Museo Leonora Carrington San Luis Potosí is a tribute to the English-born Mexican surrealist painter.

What are the best things to do around San Luis Potosí?

San Luis Potosí makes a good base to explore the surrounding area. With a car (easy to rent in the city or through your hotel) you can visit several of the grand haciendas that ring the city, including the Ex-hacienda Gogorrón outside Villa de Reyes, prime location for the 2005 movie Legend of Zorro, and Hacienda Peotillos, once frequented by Emperor Maximilian. With more time you can explore the hilly Huasteca Potosina region to the east of the city, riddled with waterfalls, mountain torrents, and secluded hiking trails. Visit recommended tour operator Huaxteca for more information.

What are the restaurants like in San Luis Potosí?

Restaurants in Potosí showcase local specialties including deep-fried enchiladas Potosinos (or Huastecas), made with masa (corn dough) infused with chili peppers and stuffed with cheese. The main market, Mercado Hidalgo has cheap and cheerful food stalls that serve them for a few pesos (they are especially good for breakfast). Another solid choice for Mexican food is Antojitos El Pozole (Carmona 205), part of a local chain celebrated for its pozole (a tasty chicken stew with corn and spices). For a treat, head over to La Gran Via (Carranza 560), an elegant, old-fashioned restaurant that specializes in Spanish seafood. Another one of our favorites is Cielo Tinto (Carranza 700), which serves gourmet Mexican food but also features a colonial courtyard perfect for coffee and pastries.

What currency is used in San Luis Potosí?

The Mexican peso (often prefixed with a “$” sign) is the currency of San Luis Potosí and the whole of Mexico. Most major shops and restaurants in San Luis Potosí accept credit cards, but it is a good idea to have some peso cash on hand for museum entry and small purchases like bottled water and snacks. ATMs and banks are easy to find in central San Luis Potosí – you’ll generally get a better rate of exchange at ATMs than at casas de cambio.

Is San Luis Potosí expensive?

It’s easy to visit San Luis Potosí on a modest budget. To save cash, stay in the cheaper B&Bs or hostels (budget Airbnb deals are also a viable option), and eat at local restaurants and taco stalls. Buses and taxis are cheap, and museum entry is rarely more than US$2–3.

Is San Luis Potosí safe?

San Luis Potosí has generally avoided the drug violence that has affected other parts of Mexico. Take the usual precautions, especially at night, and keep your valuables in room safes.

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San Cristóbal de las Casas Travel Guide

Mexico › San Cristóbal de las Casas
Updated: March 2, 2022

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San Cristóbal de las Casas is one of the most atmospheric colonial cities in Mexico, and one of our absolute favorites to visit. San Cristóbal is best known for its unspoiled colonial architecture, handicrafts, and rich Maya culture.

plaza market

A nighttime market on the main plaza.

Frequently Asked Questions about San Cristóbal de las Casas

Where is San Cristóbal de las Casas?

San Cristóbal de las Casas is an historic city in the southeastern Mexican state of Chiapas, up in the central highlands (2,200 meters/7,200 feet above sea level).

San Cristóbal is about 60 km east of state capital Tuxtla Gutiérrez, 960 km east of Mexico City, and 140 km west of the Guatemala border.

Non-stop flights to Tuxtla Gutiérrez, the closest airport to San Cristóbal, take 1 hour 25 minutes hours from Mexico City, 1 hour 40 minutes from Cancún, and 4 hours 20 minutes from Tijuana.

How big is San Cristóbal de las Casas?

San Cristóbal de las Casas has a greater metro population of around 185,000. The historic center is packed into a high mountain valley surrounded by hills.

What is the history of San Cristóbal de las Casas?

San Cristóbal was formally established by the Spanish in 1528 after the local Tzotzil and Tzeltal Maya were brutally suppressed by conquistador Diego de Mazariegos. The famous indigenous rights campaigner Bartolomé de las Casas was appointed bishop here in 1544, though he was barely able to contain the exploitation of the local Maya (he refused absolution to Spanish landowners until all their slaves had been set free), and he left within two years.

In the colonial era, San Cristóbal was the capital of Chiapas though it was actually part of the Captaincy General of Guatemala – it joined an independent Mexico in 1824, and capital status was lost to Tuxtla Gutiérrez in 1892.

The city is best known in recent times for the activities of “Subcomandante Marcos” (aka school teacher Rafael Vicente) and the Zapatista Army of National Liberation (EZLN), which occupied parts of the city in 1994 and led to two years of unrest. Since then the Zapatistas have become more a social movement than insurgency, and the EZLN retains control of numerous rural communities, though not San Cristóbal itself.

Pedestrian street with Del Carmen Arch Tower

A pedestrian street with the Arco Torre del Carmen in the distance.

How do I get to San Cristóbal de las Casas?

San Cristóbal lies some 75km northeast of the closest airport at Tuxtla Gutiérrez, which is connected to Mexico City and a handful of Mexican destinations by non-stop flights. Flights from the US, Canada, and Europe usually route through Mexico City, though visitors from Southern California can fly non-stop from Tijuana Airport. From Tuxtla airport buses run directly to San Cristóbal (around 8 daily; 1 hour, 15 minutes; around 280 pesos), which is not a bad option; taxis to San Cristóbal tend to be very expensive (over 1000 pesos), and if a taxi is taken into Tuxtla (at least 300 pesos, fixed-price, buy tickets in the terminal), there is still another hour to travel by bus from there.

San Cristóbal’s main bus terminal lies on the Carretera Panamericana (Hwy-190) on the southern edge of town (a 50 peso taxi ride to the center). Buses to San Cristóbal from Mexico City (13–14 hours) depart every couple of hours, while buses from Tuxtla Gutiérrez (1 hour, 15 minutes) depart hourly.

Can I use Uber in San Cristóbal de las Casas?

Uber does not operate in San Cristóbal de las Casas.

Can I drive to San Cristóbal de las Casas?

It’s possible but not recommended to drive to San Cristóbal de las Casas. The drive from Brownsville, Texas, is over 1000 miles (1609 km) and passes through states such as Tamaulipas, which have been affected by drug cartel violence. Roads within Chiapas itself are often poorly maintained and badly congested. Drivers also need a Mexican “Temporary Importation of Vehicle Permit”.

Do I need a car in San Cristóbal de las Casas?

The historic center of San Cristóbal de las Casas is relatively small and best appreciated on foot – local taxis are cheap and easily available.

plaza aerial view

The main plaza in front of the cathedral in the center of town.

When is the best time to go to San Cristóbal de las Casas?

San Cristóbal de las Casas is at its best March through May, when the skies are generally clear and temperatures mild – because of its altitude, the city is rarely hot, though summers can be wet, and winters chilly. Avoid Easter, Christmas, and any Mexican public holiday to avoid crowds of domestic tourists and high hotel prices (July and August also tend to more expensive because of Mexican school holidays).

Where should I stay in San Cristóbal de las Casas?

Aim to stay in the atmospheric center of old San Cristóbal de las Casas, close to all the sights, best restaurants, and attractions.

One of our absolute favorite places to stay, Hotel Na Bolom (Vicente Guerrero 33), is a celebrated cultural center that also offers comfy rooms decorated with Maya textiles and artifacts. We also like the centrally located Casa Margarita (Real de Guadalupe 34), and the luxurious La Joya Hotel (Madero 43A). Our favorite budget option is Rossco Backpackers Hostel (Real de Mexicanos 16), with friendly English-speaking owners and immaculate dorms.

What are the best things to do in San Cristóbal de las Casas?

Soak up the charming atmosphere in the old town, and go craft shopping in San Cristóbal’s vibrant markets. Central Plaza 31 de Marzo (aka “el parque”) is the languid heart of the city, surrounded by cafés, colonial mansions, and the 16th-century cathedral. Slicing through the old town and the plaza is a pedestrianized thoroughfare known and “Andador Eclesiástico”, lined with souvenir shops, cafés, and ice-cream sellers. The street ends at the city’s most interesting church, the pink stucco Templo de Santo Domingo Guzmán. Nearby, the Mercado José Castillo Tielemans is San Cristóbal’s main central market, crammed with all sorts of goods sold by local indigenous people. The best museum in town is at Casa Na-Bolom, the former home of Danish explorer and anthropologist Frans Blom, who died in 1963. It’s now a great place to learn about the local Maya cultures, particularly the isolated Lacandón.

Santa Lucia Church

Santa Lucia Church.

What are the best things to do around San Cristóbal de las Casas?

San Cristóbal de las Casas makes a good base to explore the surrounding area. Numerous outfits offer tours to the traditional Maya villages of San Juan Chamula and San Lorenzo de Zinacantán; the panoramic Cañón del Sumidero; and the Maya ruins at Palenque. Tours are not that expensive and are a lot easier than arranging solo visits. Recommended operators include Nichim Tours, Alex and Raul Tours, and Jalapeño Tours.

What are the restaurants in San Cristóbal de las Casas like?

The restaurants in San Cristóbal de las Casas are extremely varied and international, thanks to a large foreign backpacking contingent. San Cristóbal itself is celebrated for its Spanish-style cured hams and sausages, and the locally produced coffee is also excellent. Our favorites include the tasty and cheap vegetarian food at Te Quiero Verde (Niños Héroes 5), the happening Tierradentro Café at Real de Guadalupe 24, and the sensational tapas at La Viña de Bacco (Real de Guadalupe 7).

We also love El Horno Mágico (General Utrilla 7), a French-inspired bakery, and Teddy’s (Belisario Domínguez 1), which sells superb coffee and knocks out authentic Korean food. Café Bar Revolución (Andador Eclesiástico, at 1 de Marzo), is a top choice for cocktails and live music.

Can I learn Spanish in San Cristóbal de las Casas?

San Cristóbal is a fun place to learn Spanish. Instituto Jovel (Madero 45) offers a wide range of languages and cultural courses.

What currency is used in San Cristóbal de las Casas?

The Mexican peso (often prefixed with a “$” sign) is the currency of Mexico and San Cristóbal de las Casas. Most major shops and restaurants in San Cristóbal de las Casas accept credit cards, but it is a good idea to have some peso cash on hand for museums and small purchases like bottled water and snacks. ATMs are easy to find around the main plaza in San Cristóbal.

city hall

City Hall at night.

Is San Cristóbal de las Casas expensive?

There are so many hotels in San Cristóbal that prices are competitive, and there are plenty of cheap places to eat, from local canteens to taco stalls. Taxis are cheap and museums rarely charge more than US$2–3 equivalent.

Is San Cristóbal de las Casas safe?

San Cristóbal de las Casas has generally avoided the drug violence that has affected other parts of Mexico. Take the usual precautions, especially at night, and keep valuables in room safes.

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Saltillo Travel Guide

Mexico › Saltillo
Updated: March 2, 2022

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Provincial and well off the beaten path, Saltillo is a colonial gem that’s one of our favorite Mexican cities to explore. It’s loaded with elegant colonial architecture, museums, markets and is a great place to buy sarapes, traditional Mexican shawls – and it’s never busy.

Frequently Asked Questions about Saltillo

Where is Saltillo?

Saltillo is the capital of the northern Mexican state of Coahuila, high in the Chihuahuan Desert. Saltillo lies about 80 km west of Monterrey, and 840 km north of Mexico City.

How big is Saltillo?

Saltillo has a greater metro population of just under 1 million. The city stretches for some 20km north-south along the western slopes of the Sierra Madre Oriental.

What is the history of Saltillo?

Once the home of the Chichimeca people, Saltillo was founded by Spanish conquistador Alberto del Canto in 1577 – it’s the oldest Spanish settlement in northern Mexico. Despite del Canto’s brutal suppression, Chichimeca resistance meant the city remained small and insignificant well into the 18th century. The city finally grew as a trade and supply center for Mexico’s silver mines, its farms producing much of the nation’s wheat. The city changed hands several times during the Mexican Revolution – five Mexican presidents came from Coahuila, including Venustiano Carranza and Francisco Madero. Saltillo rapidly industrialized after World War II, with major US and German car manufacturers opening factories here.

How do I get to Saltillo?

Saltillo’s airport currently offers no passenger flights – the closest airport is at Monterrey, some 110 km to the northeast (Monterrey’s airport is well-connected to cities in the US and throughout Mexico). Buses shuttle between Monterrey’s bus station and Saltillo every hour and take around 1 hour 30 minutes. Taxis direct from Monterrey Airport to Saltillo are very expensive – Uber offers cheaper rates (around 1500 pesos), though drivers may be reluctant to pick up from the airport due to hostility from the airport taxi union. Comfortable first-class buses also connect Saltillo with Mexico City (every 1 to 2 hours; 10–12 hours); San Luis Potosí (hourly; 5 hours); and Zacatecas (hourly; 4 to 6 hours). Saltillo’s Centro de Autobuses (main bus station) lies 3km south of the city center – take a taxi from here. Taxis should use the meter, with most trips into the city center around 50 pesos.

What about Uber in Saltillo?

Uber does operate in Saltillo (assuming phones have roaming, and the app works), and getting an Uber within the city should be no problem – Uber can be cheaper than regular taxis in Saltillo.

Can I drive to Saltillo?

Driving to Saltillo down from the US border is relatively straightforward. However, the border state of Nuevo León has a reputation for violent crime and drug gang activity – definitely avoid driving at night. The drive from the Texas border at Laredo (185 miles or 298 km) takes just under 4 hours (it’s about the same from the border at McAllen/Reynosa). Note that foreign vehicles need a Mexican “Temporary Importation of Vehicle Permit”.
If renting a vehicle, it’s much easier to do this once across the Mexican border, as taking US rental vehicles into Mexico comes with all sorts of restrictions.

Do I need a car in Saltillo?

The city center of Saltillo is relatively small and it’s easy and cheap to get around on foot, by bus, or taxi (Uber is also available).

When is the best time to go to Saltillo?

Spring and the fall is the best time to go to Saltillo. Saltillo tends to have hot, humid summers (with August the wettest month), which can make sightseeing extremely uncomfortable – from mid-February to mid-May, and October to November, it is warm, dry, and sunny. Winters can be a little cooler (day-time temperatures rarely fall below 70°F), but also very dry.

Where should I stay in Saltillo?

Aim to stay in the atmospheric center of old Saltillo, close to all the sights, best restaurants, and attractions. Motel chains have sprung up around the city, near the major highways, and can offer good rates, but these are a long way from the action and it can be hassle shuttling in and out of the center. Our favorite place to stay is the Hotel Colonial San Miguel, an historic building with lots of character, comfy rooms, and a small pool.

What are the best things to do in Saltillo?

The best thing to do in Saltillo is to soak up the history. Saltillo is a relatively small colonial city but it’s loaded with historic architecture and museums – history buffs will especially love it, though Saltillo also boasts some of Mexico’s best nature museums; the Museo de las Aves de México (musave.org) showcases the numerous bird species found in Mexico, while the absorbing Museo del Desierto, 3 km east of the center, highlights the ecology of deserts, particularly of northern Mexico.

The traditional heart of the city is the blocks between Plaza de Armas and Plaza Acuña, the former home to the city’s gorgeous cathedral, and the latter location of Mercado Juárez, the main market and a good place to browse for souvenirs. Saltillo is especially famous for its sarapes (multicolored woolen shawls), sold at the market, or at craft shops such as El Sarape de Saltillo (Hidalgo 305). You can also learn about the history of sarape making at the Museo del Sarape y Trajes Mexicanos (Allende Sur 160).

It’s fun to simply wander Saltillo’s cobbled colonial streets, but the best of its (many) museums are the Museo de la Revolución Mexicana (Hidalgo Sur 167), which focuses on the Mexican Revolution and local boy made president Venustiano Carranza; and the Museo del Palacio on Plaza de Armas, inside the former Coahuila statehouse, with exhibitions on the history of Coahuila.

What are the restaurants like in Saltillo?

Although the restaurants in Saltillo are pretty good, they are not especially varied. We love La Canasta (Carranza 2485), which had been knocking out Mexican classics and decent steak since the 1960s (it is best known for “arroz Huerfano”, a rice dish made with ham, nuts, and bacon, and its homemade lemon meringue pie). Another local specialty, pan de pulque (wheat bread made with cinnamon and cactus juice) can be sampled at Pan de Pulque Los Álamos (Madero 1326), a local bakery. For coffee, pastries, and sandwiches it’s hard to beat atmospheric Cafeteria Kala, inside the Galería del Instituto Coahuilense on Plaza de Armas.

What currency is used in Saltillo?

The Mexican peso (often prefixed with a “$” sign) is the currency of Mexico and Saltillo. Most major shops and restaurants in Saltillo accept credit cards, but it is a good idea to have some peso cash on hand for museum entry and small purchases like bottled water and snacks. ATMs are easy to find in Saltillo around the two main plazas.

Is Saltillo expensive?

Saltillo is an affordable destination. Hotels in Saltillo are reasonably priced given their quality, and eating out is rarely expensive. You won’t spend much on transportation, and fees to enter museums are low, typically one or two US dollars equivalent.

Is Saltillo safe?

Saltillo has generally avoided the drug violence that has affected other parts of Mexico. Take the usual precautions, especially at night, and keep valuables in room safes.

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Querétaro Travel Guide

Mexico › Querétaro
Updated: March 2, 2022

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Rosewood tree in Querétaro Mexico

Of all Mexico’s colonial cities, Querétaro is one of our perennial favorites – loaded with historic gems, baroque churches, museums, shady plazas, and relaxed street cafés, but with a fraction of the tourists that visit the nation’s more famous destinations.

Frequently Asked Questions about Querétaro

Where is Querétaro?

Querétaro is the capital city of the Mexican state of Querétaro, located in the region of central Mexico known as the Bajío.

Querétaro lies about 215 km northwest of Mexico City, 65 km southeast of San Miguel de Allende, and 365 km east of Guadalajara. Non-stop flights to Querétaro take 1 hour from Mexico City, 1 hour 15 minutes from Monterrey, 2 hours 5 minutes from Houston, 2 hours 25 minutes from Dallas, and 2 hours 25 minutes from Cancún.

How big is Querétaro?

Querétaro has a greater metro population of just over 1 million – it’s one of the fastest growing (and richest) cities in Mexico. It covers an area of around 760 square kilometers, on the edge of the Sierra Madre Oriental.

What is the history of Querétaro?

Querétaro (“rocky place”) was once the home of the Otomi and Chichimeca peoples – at the time of the Spanish Conquest, it was part of the Aztec Empire. The Spanish settlement was officially founded in 1531 by Hernán Pérez Bocanegra y Córdoba and an Otomi leader known as Conín, but development was slow and it only became a town formally in 1606. Colonial Querétaro flourished thereafter, becoming one of the cradles of Mexican Independence.

It was here, meeting under the guise of Literary Associations, that the Independence conspirators made their earliest plans. In 1810 one of them, María Josefa Ortiz de Dominguez, wife of the town’s Corregidor (or governor – she is known as “La Corregidora”), found that her husband had learned of the movement’s intentions. Although locked in her room, La Corregidora managed to get a message out warning the revolutionaries, thus precipitating an unexpectedly early start to the struggle for independence.

Later, in 1867, the French-backed Emperor Maximilian was executed by a firing squad at Querétaro, and the city hosted an important assembly of Revolutionary politicians in 1916, leading eventually to the signing here of the 1917 Constitution, which is still in force today.

How do I get to Querétaro?

Querétaro is connected to the US by several non-stop flights, from Chicago, Dallas, Detroit, and Houston; domestic flights connect Querétaro with major destinations throughout Mexico. Flights from Canada or Europe will likely route through the USA or Mexico City.

Within Mexico, first-class long-distance buses are an economical and comfortable alternative to flying – buses to Querétaro from Guadalajara (4–5 hours), Mexico City (3–4 hours), and San Miguel de Allende (1 hour 15 minutes) operate every 30 minutes. Querétaro’s massive Central de Autobuses (bus station) lies 6km south of the city center. Arriving there it’s best to take a taxi to your hotel – these follow a fixed-rate system, with the current rates displayed at kiosks at the exit (pay here before getting in).

What are the options for Querétaro airport transportation?

Querétaro’s airport lies 32km northeast of the city center on the Hwy-200 towards Tequisquiapan. We recommend taking one of the airport taxis (around M$350) or an Uber to get to the hotel.

What about Uber in Querétaro?

Uber does operate in Querétaro (assuming phones have roaming, and the app works), and drivers will usually pick-up from the airport, though they do face the usual hostility from the airport taxi union. An Uber ride into the city should be cheaper – around 290 pesos – than regular taxis. Once in the city, getting an Uber should be no problem.

Can I drive to Querétaro?

Driving down to Querétaro from the US border is relatively straightforward – the main highways are good, and virtually empty outside the towns. However, the Mexican border states of Nuevo León and Tamaulipas have been affected by drug cartel violence – driving at night is definitely a bad idea. Check the latest travel advisories at travel.state.gov or ask the hotel. Cars also need a Mexican “Temporary Importation of Vehicle Permit”.

From Brownsville, Texas the drive is around 525 miles (845 km) and takes around 10 hours non-stop. Querétaro is 570 miles (917 km) from Laredo, Texas (11 hours), and 2590 km from Tijuana, on the southern border of California.
If renting a vehicle, it’s much easier to do this once across the Mexican border, as taking US rental vehicles into Mexico comes with all sorts of restrictions.

Do I need a car in Querétaro?

It’s easy to explore most of Querétaro’s city center on foot; otherwise call an Uber or take a local taxi (taxis have meters, initial fare 25 pesos). The city has an excellent public bus system (fares 11 pesos), but most tourists are unlikely to need it.

When is the best time to go to Querétaro?

Querétaro boasts a year-round temperate climate, with the driest and sunniest months October to April. Rain is most common July to August. There’s no real “bad” time to visit, though it can actually get chilly November to January. March through June is probably best, when the weather is pleasantly warm, the days generally dry, and crowds low-key.

Where should I stay in Querétaro?

The best place to stay in Querétaro is right in the historic heart (the centro histórico), close to all the sights, best restaurants, and attractions. Modern business hotels and cheaper motels line the highways on the outskirts of the city, but these are all a long way from the action and it can be hassle shuttling back and forwards. We like La Casa del Atrio, a posh B&B and spa with fabulous views and facilities, and the lavish Casa de la Marquesa (Madero 41), housed in a 1756 mansion with a gorgeous Mudéjar-style courtyard. Kuku Rukú and El Petate Hostel are our favorite budget options.

What are the best things to do in Querétaro?

Soak up the Querétaro’s colonial charm and be immersed in Mexico’s revolutionary history. Sip coffee at an outdoor café and take in the scene on Querétaro’s three main squares: the elegant Jardín Zenéa, Plaza de la Independencia, and Plaza de la Constitución. Learn about the Mexican War of Independence at the Museo de los Conspiradores (Andador 15 de Mayo no. 18), and the history of Querétaro state at the Museo Regional de Querétaro (Corregidora Sur 3). The story of the French Intervention and Emperor Maximilian is told at the Museo de la Restauración de la República (Guerrero 23), while the incredibly ornate Museo de Arte de Querétaro (Allende 14) is crammed with Mexican art from 17th-century to the present day.

Querétaro’s churches are similarly enticing, with our favorites the Templo de San Francisco on Jardín Zenéa, with a beautiful dome covered in azulejos (colored tiles); the Templo de Santa Clara (Madero 42), with its exuberant Baroque interior; and 18th-century Templo de Santa Rosa de Viterbo (Arteaga, at Montes), with another magnificent interior and a blue-and-white-tiled dome.

It’s also worth checking out the 19th-century Teatro de la República (Juárez at Ángela Peralta), where the Mexican Constitution was debated in 1917, and the quirky Museo Casa de la Zacatecana, an 18th-century mansion that preserves the grisly legend of its former owner (the evil Zacatecana murdered her husband).

For longer excursions, stroll out to Cerro de las Campañas, the “Hill of Bells” west of the center, or to the Convento de la Cruz (Ejército Republicano, at Felipe Luna), an old Spanish monastery that harbors the “Árbol de la Cruz”, a tree whose thorns sprout in the shape of little crosses.

What are the best things to do around Querétaro?

Querétaro makes a good base to explore the surrounding area, especially the hills of the Sierra Gorda. Some 60km east of Querétaro, the pretty village of Bernal is best known for the Peña de Bernal, a 350m-high peak of volcanic rock that towers over the area. Nearby Tequisquiapan is a gorgeous colonial Spanish town crammed with boutique hotels, spas, and craft markets.

What are the restaurants like in Querétaro?

Querétaro has excellent restaurants. The city is known for a couple of specialties; a thick lentil soup laced with chunks of dried fruit (“sopa regional”), and the local take on enchiladas (“enchiladas Queretanas”), fried with chili sauce, onions, and cheese. A good place to try them is Café del Fondo (Pino Suárez 9). Some of the best snack food in the city is knocked out at Tamales y Atoles Arteaga (Arteaga 48) a tamale specialist, while San Miguelito (Andador 5 de Mayo 39), is one of the city’s best Mexican restaurants. For something special try to snag a table at Chinicuil (Pasteur Sur 52), showcase for the contemporary creations of celebrity chef Alan Rodríguez. Since the COVID pandemic, the restaurant has been mobile (“nomada”), with pop-ups held throughout the city and announced on Instagram.

What currency is used in Querétaro?

The Mexican peso (often prefixed with a “$” sign) is the currency of Mexico and used in Querétaro. Most major shops and restaurants accept credit cards, but it is a good idea to have some peso cash on hand for museum entry and small purchases like bottled water and snacks. Banks and ATMs are easy to find in Querétaro, especially around Jardín Zenéa.

Is Querétaro expensive?

It’s easy to visit Querétaro on a modest budget. To save cash, stay in the cheaper B&Bs or hostels (budget Airbnb deals are also a viable option), and eat at local restaurants and taco stalls. Buses and taxis are cheap, and museum entry is rarely more than US$2–3.

Is Querétaro safe?

Querétaro has generally avoided the drug violence that has affected other parts of Mexico. Take the usual precautions, especially at night, and keep valuables in room safes.

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Puerto Vallarta Travel Guide

Mexico › Puerto Vallarta
Updated: March 2, 2022

Puerto Vallarta Articles

Puerto Vallarta is a popular resort on the western, Pacific coast of Mexico, and one of our absolute favorite places to go in the country. Set on wide Banderas Bay – a favorite stop for migrating humpback whales – PV is best known for its wonderful beaches, tropical setting, charming old town, and vibrant watersports and nightclub scene.

Banderas Bay beach photo

The popular beach stretches along the entirety of Puerto Vallarta facing out to the beautiful Banderas Bay.

Frequently Asked Questions about Puerto Vallarta

Where is Puerto Vallarta?

Puerto Vallarta is a city in Mexico, a resort town on the Pacific Ocean located in the state of Jalisco (though its northern environs spill over into the state of Nayarit). Puerto Vallarta lies about 880 km west of Mexico City, 330 km west of Guadalajara, and 440 km south of Mazatlán. Non-stop flights to PV take 3 hours 25 minutes from San Francisco, 3 hours from Los Angeles, 2 hours 25 minutes from Houston, 2 hours 20 minutes from Phoenix, 1.5 hours from Mexico City and 40 minutes from Guadalajara.

How big is Puerto Vallarta?

Puerto Vallarta has a greater metro population of almost 380,000. The main city and busiest resort area stretch some 10km north to south at the center of vast Bahía de Banderas (Banderas Bay). Pristine beaches and smaller resorts fan out either side of this central zone – over 50km to the north, and 20km to the south by road, though the beaches continue westwards for another 30km, accessible by boat.

What is the history of Puerto Vallarta?

Puerto Vallarta was formally established in the 1850s as “Las Peñas”, though there had been small settlements of fishermen and smugglers along the bay for decades before. Initially developed as a port and supply hub by the Union en Cuale mining company, the town was renamed in 1918, after Ignacio L. Vallarta, former governor of Jalisco. It was a relatively sleepy place until the 1960s when the town was developed as an international resort by the Mexican government. Transportation links were improved, and tourism got a boost from John Huston’s The Night of the Iguana, starring Richard Burton, which was filmed in 1963 in Mismaloya, 10km south of central PV (Huston lived here until his death in 1987).

Guadalupe church city skyline

The iconic Our Lady of Guadalupe Church as part of the Puerto Vallarta skyline.

How do I get to Puerto Vallarta?

Puerto Vallarta is connected to the US and Canada by numerous non-stop flights; trips take anywhere from 2 hours 25 minutes to 8 hours, depending on the destination. Most domestic flights link PV with Guadalajara and Mexico City.

Within Mexico, first-class long-distance buses are an economical and comfortable alternative to flying – buses to Guadalajara (6 hours) and Mexico City (14 hours) operate hourly. PV’s Terminal de Autobuses (bus station) is around 12km north of the Old Town, off the main highway. Upon arrival, it’s best to take a taxi to the hotel – these follow a fixed-rate system, with the current rates displayed at the exit, but always confirm the cost before getting in.

What are the options for PV airport transportation?

Puerto Vallarta’s airport lies 10km north of the Old Town on the coastal highway (Hwy-200). Travelers with luggage should just get a taxi. Uber is available in PV, and presuming your mobile phone works in Mexico and has roaming, Uber rates tend to be 50 to 75 percent cheaper than the official airport taxis. However, Uber drivers are not allowed to pick-up from the airport (though they can drop off). Instead, depart the terminal, walk towards the highway and turn left – Uber cars can stop below the pedestrian bridge here. Cheap (less than US$1 in pesos) but crowded buses also run up and down the highway here, but these are only recommended for visitors with little luggage. Buses going south are marked “Olas Altas” or “Centro”; for destinations to the north, cross the footbridge and look for buses marked “Punta de Mita”. The other side of the footbridge is also where to pick up local taxis – these will be around 30 percent cheaper than airport taxis but fix the price before getting in.

If none of that appeals, splash out on an official airport taxi. Pay for these at kiosks outside the terminal – rates are tied to a zone system: US$17 (roughly 380 pesos) for Marina Vallarta; US$18 (400 pesos) for the Old Town/Zona Romántica; US$25 (550 pesos) for Nuevo Vallarta; and US$30 (670 pesos) for Mismaloya and Bucerías. All the major car rental firms have desks at the airport.

When is the best time to go to Puerto Vallarta?

Puerto Vallarta is at its best mid-April to June and October. April through June has the best weather; May and June have the best hotel deals, and October/November has the best water for snorkeling and diving. The rainy season usually runs late June into October.

malecon waterfront

The malecon walkway along the waterfront is one of the most popular areas for tourists, lined with restaurants, night clubs, art galleries, street performers and food vendors.

What are the main resort areas in Puerto Vallarta?

The city of Puerto Vallarta itself remains the main focus of resorts on the Bay of Banderas, with the Old Town in the center marking a convenient break between north and south. To the north, the “Zona Hotelera” fronts a long swath of beach up to the upscale Marina Vallarta development, while to the south lies the “Zona Romántica” and Playa de los Muertos, the most fun city beach. Beyond these built-up city beaches, the bay features several other resort areas with good links to central PV. North of Marina Vallarta, over the state line in what is dubbed the “Riviera Nayarit”, the bay curves for 30km to upscale Punta de Mita via Nuevo Vallarta and Bucerías. To the south, the coast road passes a series of enticing coves and beaches ending at Mismaloya – from here, small water taxis zip along the coast to Yelapa, stopping at remote beaches along the way.

What are the best beaches in Puerto Vallarta?

Our favorite beaches in Puerto Vallarta are Playa Caballo, a short water taxi ride from Boca de Tomatlán, with a tranquil setting, great sand, palm trees, and wonderful swimming; and Playa Colomitos, which has a real “hidden beach” feel (also accessible by boat or jungle trail). Playa de los Muertos in town has the deserved reputation for partying and a vibrant nightlife, as well as a growing LGBT scene. Playa Conchas Chinas and Playa Palito Verde are perfect for beach lovers looking for a quieter, more relaxed experience. For watersports, take a water taxi to Las Caletas or Las Ánimas.

Do I need a car in Puerto Vallarta?

Unless exploring along the edges of Banderas Bay, a car is not necessary in Puerto Vallarta. The city beaches are all easily accessible on foot or by taxi; the beaches to the south along the highway are easy to reach by cheap, regular buses from the Old Town, as well as by taxi. Beyond Boca de Tomátlan, travel is only by water taxi anyway.

The beaches to the north are strung out along 50km of coastline, so a car can save time here if the intent is to visit several. Cheap, local buses trundle up and down the coast all the way to Punta de Mita, but they can be frustratingly slow, and taxi rates are expensive for trips from PV beyond Nuevo Vallarta.

How do water taxis work in Puerto Vallarta?

Beaches south of Boca de Tomátlan can only be accessed by boat (or stiff hikes through the jungle). Water Taxis from Boca run to Las Ánimas (around 50 pesos; 10min) and Yelapa (around 80 pesos; 30min), but always check current schedules at the dock. More expensive water taxis depart Playa de los Muertos in the Zona Romántica, usually hourly in high season, for the same destinations. Private boats are also available, but these cost a lot more.

Buses to Mismaloya (20–25min) and Boca de Tomátlan (another 10min) depart from the Zona Romántica every 10–15min.

Where to change money in Puerto Vallarta?

Try to use ATMs to withdraw peso cash in PV (check with the bank before leaving to confirm it’s possible to use a debit card and how much they will charge – using credit cards can incur interest and fees). Otherwise, banks and cash exchange booths in the city tend to give better rates than anything at the airport.

Where should I stay in Puerto Vallarta?

For most travelers, the best places to stay in Puerto Vallarta are along the two main city beach areas – the Zona Hotelera and the Zona Romántica – for a good mix of sunbathing, dining, nightlife, and exploring, with a wide range of hotel prices from luxury to budget. These areas are well-connected to each other by bus or taxi, and within the areas themselves, everything is just a short walk away. Travelers looking to get away from the crowds may enjoy the more remote Mismaloya or Yelapa, or quieter strips near Nuevo Vallarta and Bucerías.

folkloric dancers

Folkloric dancers performing as part of a free public cultural program in downtown.

What are the best things to do in Puerto Vallarta?

The best things to do in Puerto Vallarta are connected with the beaches; swimming, surfing, sunbathing, and various watersports. Other pleasures include dining, drinking, and shopping – particularly the growing number of art galleries – in the Old Town, admiring the views and statues on the Malecón, visiting the main church, the Templo de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe, perusing the Mercado Municipal del Cuale, aka the Flea Market, and paying homage to John Huston’s statue and the small museum on the Isla Río Cuale, in the middle of the river that divides the Old Town and the Zona Romántica. Boats depart Mismaloya for snorkeling to Los Arcos, a group of tiny islets surrounded by an underwater reserve, and everyone should take a water taxi to visit the remote beaches south of Boca de Tomatlán. For a break from all things saltwater, take a taxi or bus to the tranquil Vallarta Botanical Gardens in the hills above Boca de Tomatlán or take a zipline ride with Los Veranos Canopy Tour or Canopy River.

Taking a guided tour is a great way to get to know the region beyond the city and the beaches. Some of our favorite PV tours include the cruises operated by Puerto Vallarta Tours and Vallarta Adventures, while Chico’s Dive Shop operates excellent snorkeling and dive trips to the nearby underwater reserve.

What are the restaurants like in Puerto Vallarta?

The restaurants in Puerto Vallarta are extremely varied and international. Along the main beaches and in the Old Town are classic beach bar/restaurants such as Daíquiri Dicks with its “Pescado Vallarta” (whole grilled fish served on a stick), and Joe Jack’s Fish Shack, as well as gourmet restaurants such as Chef Thierry Blouet’s French-styled Café des Artistes, and Mediterranean specialist Trio. Further inland are no-frills taco stands popular with locals that are not to be missed.

What currency is used in Puerto Vallarta?

The Mexican peso (often prefixed with a “$” sign) is the currency of Mexico, though many hotels in Puerto Vallarta will quote rates in US dollars. Most major shops and restaurants in PV accept credit cards, but it is a good idea to have some peso cash on hand for bus trips and small purchases like bottled water and snacks. ATMs are easy to find in PV and along the bay. Note that although US dollars (cash) are accepted in some shops, taxis, and restaurants, change will usually be given in pesos at a poor exchange rate – it’s best to use pesos.

Is Puerto Vallarta expensive?

Puerto Vallarta certainly contains luxury hotels, exclusive beach clubs, designer shops, and pricey bars and restaurants, but it’s easy to visit PV on a modest budget. To save cash, simply choose hotels and local restaurants that are not directly on the water. All beaches are open to the public and free to visit, buses and water taxis are very cheap, and budget Airbnb deals are also a viable option all along the bay.

Is Puerto Vallarta safe?

Yes. Puerto Vallarta has generally avoided the drug violence that has affected other parts of Mexico. Take the usual precautions, especially at night, and keep valuables in room safes. Theft of personal items from beaches does happen – never leave anything of value unattended, even on seemingly empty stretches of sand.

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Where to Stay in Palenque

Mexico › Best Places to Stay in Palenque
Updated: March 2, 2022

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Palenque is a small city in southeastern Mexico, best known for its sensational Maya ruins, set on the edge of the rainforest, buzzing with colorful birds and the haunting cries of howler monkeys.

Frequently Asked Questions about Palenque

palenque mayan archaeological ruins

The ancient Mayan ruins complex of Palenque, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the rain forest of Chiapas.

Where is Palenque?
Palenque is a small modern city and adjacent archeological site in the southeastern Mexico state of Chiapas. Palenque lies around 270 km northeast of the Chiapas state capital Tuxtla Gutiérrez, 210 km northeast of San Cristobal de las Casas, 900 km southeast of Mexico City, and 835 km southwest of Cancún. Non-stop flights to Palenque take 1 hour 30 minutes from Mexico City.

How big is Palenque?
Palenque has a population of around 42,000, including a large Ch’ol (Maya) indigenous community. The city proper covers a relatively small area and is surrounded by rainforest. The archeological site and ancient Maya ruins of Palenque lies some 8 km southwest of the modern city center.

What is the history of Palenque?
The modern city of Palenque was formally established by Spanish missionary Pedro Lorenzo in 1567, as part of an effort to convert the rural Maya population to Christianity. It remained relatively isolated in the rainforest and was only designated a town in 1813 (it became a city in 1972). The main roads were finally paved in 1990. The ancient Maya city of Palenque is much older, and was already abandoned when the Spanish arrived (the Spanish discovered the ruins in 1740). The earliest remains at Palenque date from around 300 BC, but the city was at its peak in the Maya Late Classic Period (c. 600–900 AD). Not much is known about the people that once lived here, though a list of kings, beginning with K’uk’ Bahlam I (431–435 AD), has been uncovered. The most famous king was Pakal the Great (615–683 AD), who initiated much of Palenque’s later construction. Palenque was abandoned by the Maya sometime in the 9th century, for reasons that are still unknown, though the most recent theories have focused on ecological factors, such as long-term drought.

How do I get to Palenque?
Palenque Airport (about 5 km northwest of the city center) serves just one route, the Interjet service from Mexico City – take a taxi into the center from here (250–300 pesos). Otherwise most travelers arrive by bus. Buses to Palenque from Campeche (5 hours 35 minutes); Cancún (around 13 hours); Mexico City (around 14 hours 30 minutes) and San Cristóbal (5 hours) arrive at the first-class bus terminal on the traffic circle in the center of the city, within walking distance of many hotels. Another option is to take a guided tour of Palenque from San Cristóbal de las Casas (via the waterfalls at Agua Azul), and ask to be dropped off in Palenque instead of returning to San Cristóbal. Hiring a taxi/driver is also possible but expensive; reckon on US$100–150 from San Cristóbal (5 hours) or a bit less from Villahermosa Airport in Tabasco (just 2 hours).

Is the overland route safe?
The main road to Palenque (north from San Cristóbal and south from the Yucatán) can be subject to closures by the local indigenous communities (during disputes with the government) and can result in lengthy delays – check the current situation at your hotel before buying tickets. Hold-ups of buses are very rare but can happen at night – robberies on buses at night have also been reported. Taking first-class ADO bus services during the day should ensure a safe trip.

What about Uber?
Uber does not yet operate in Palenque.

Can I drive to Palenque?
Yes, but it’s not recommended. It’s almost 1000 miles (1610 km) to Brownsville, Texas, and the roads in Chiapas can be rough (and unsafe at night). Drivers also need a Mexican “Temporary Importation of Vehicle Permit”.

Do I need a car in Palenque?
No. The center of the city is very small and easy to walk around on foot. The only journey requiring transport is the 8 km (or less, if staying in a hotel on route) ride to and from the Maya ruins; small minivans (colectivos) zip between the city center and ruins every few minutes (operated by Transportes Palenque). Just flag them down (around 35 pesos). Taxis are also plentiful in town and charge around 120 pesos for the ride to the ruins – fix the price before getting in.

When is the best time to go to Palenque?
November to February, when the weather is warm and relatively dry. Palenque has a tropical climate – it’s very hot March to May, and humid and rainy June to October, though the hotels will be a little cheaper at this time. Avoid Christmas and Easter, when domestic tourists pour into Palenque.

Where should I stay in Palenque?

palenque queens bath waterfall

‘The Queen’s Bath’ waterfall in the forest within the Palenque Archaeological Zone.

There are three main choices in terms of area: the busy city center near the main plaza; the more residential and quieter neighborhood of La Cañada, just north of the bus station; and along the jungle-lined road to the ruins.

The city center offers the cheapest rates and proximity to services (banks, tour companies, laundries, restaurants and so on). We like the modern Hotel Maya Rue, on Aldama, between Juárez and 5 de Mayo, two blocks from the main plaza, and the newer Casa 5 B&B at Emilio Rabasa 45.

La Cañada is a bit more upmarket, and is a lot more tranquil – this is a good compromise as it’s still within walking distances of most services and restaurants. Recommended options here include Maya Tulipanes at Cañada 6, which has a pool, and friendly Hotel Museo Xibalba at Merle Green 9, which has a roof terrace.

The hotels on the road to the ruins tend to be better quality and more expensive – obviously more convenient for the ruins (there’s not much to see in town anyway), but less choices when it comes to eating and services, without zipping back and forth into town. Top of the pile is the luxurious Quinta Chanabnal (2 km from the city center), while the more affordable but recommended Chan-Kah Resort Village (3 km from the center) has the most attractive pool in Palenque.

What are the best things to do in Palenque?
There’s only one reason to come here – the ancient Maya ruins of Palenque (officially “Zona Arqueológica Palenque”), some of the most atmospheric in Mexico (there’s nothing to see in the modern city of Palenque). Though the ruins here resemble the Maya sites in Guatemala, Palenque developed its own distinctive architectural style. Highlights include the huge “Templo de las Inscripciones” step-pyramid (which still contains the original sarcophagus of Pakal the Great), and the unique square tower and beautiful relief carvings of “El Palacio”. The site’s location is also fabulous, surrounded by jungle-smothered hills, with stunning views of the pancake-flat Yucatán peninsular visible from the pyramids.

Palenque’s excellent museum, 1.5 km before the main entrance to the ruins, offers the best introduction to the site and displays many of the most important artifacts found here, including a replica of Pakal the Great’s engraved sarcophagus lid. The ruins are open daily and cost 80 pesos.

What are the best things to do around Palenque?

palenque misol ha jungle waterfall

The amazing Misol-Há waterfall. There is a pathway to walk behind the cascade, and you are able to swim in the pool below.

Numerous tour companies offer similarly priced trips to attractions around Palenque, notably the waterfalls at Agua Azul and Misol-Há. These are both beautiful and worth seeing – Agua Azul is the bigger and more developed site (and can be mobbed during holidays), while you can swim safely in the pool of water at the bottom of the falls at Misol-Há. Much longer day-trips take in the Maya ruins of Bonampak and Yaxchilán – both spectacular sites and well worth the time and expense (it’s much easier to visit these sites on a guided tour than solo). Recommended local operators include Na Chan Kan and Turistica Chambajlum.

What are the restaurants like?
Nothing special, but there are plenty of cheap places serving typical Mexican food and international favorites such as pasta and pizza in the city center, and better restaurants attached to the bigger hotels. Some of our favorites include Café de Yara in the city center (Hidalgo 66), which serves excellent coffee and breakfasts, then morphs into a fun bar at night. For no-frills but cheap and tasty Mexican food, try Taquería Tropitacos at Central Poniente 49, a block west of the main plaza. In La Cañada our go-to for Mexican staples is Maya Cañada Felíz (Merle Green 10), while Don Mucho (Carretera Ruinas-Palenque km 4.5) on the road to the ruins has relaxed outdoor seating, a decent international menu, and nightly live music.

What currency is used in Palenque?
The Mexican peso (often pre-fixed with a “$” sign) is the currency of Mexico and used in Palenque – businesses will generally not accept US dollars. Bring lots of pesos to Palenque – some shops and restaurants accept credit cards, but many don’t, and for bus trips and small purchases like bottled water and snacks, cash is king.

Where to change money in Palenque?
Using local ATMs will generally be cheaper than changing money at hotels or at casa de cambios (which will take a commission). Several banks along Juárez in the city center have ATMs – these will usually have cash Monday to Friday during bank opening hours, but can run out at night or at the weekends. There’s also an ATM at the bus terminal, but we don’t recommend using this (or any other ATM not attached to a bank branch), as these can get hacked by credit card scammers.

Is Palenque expensive?
No – hotels are good value and unless it’s a public holiday in Mexico, competitively priced. Budget airbnb deals are also a viable option. The local restaurants and buses/taxis are cheap, and the ruins are less than US$4 to enter.

Is Palenque safe?
Yes. Palenque itself has generally avoided the drug violence that has affected other parts of Mexico. Take the usual precautions, especially at night, and keep your valuables in room safes.

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