Category Archives: Travel

Saltillo Travel Guide

Mexico › Saltillo
Updated: March 2, 2022

See Also

Provincial and well off the beaten path, Saltillo is a colonial gem that’s one of our favorite Mexican cities to explore. It’s loaded with elegant colonial architecture, museums, markets and is a great place to buy sarapes, traditional Mexican shawls – and it’s never busy.

Frequently Asked Questions about Saltillo

Where is Saltillo?

Saltillo is the capital of the northern Mexican state of Coahuila, high in the Chihuahuan Desert. Saltillo lies about 80 km west of Monterrey, and 840 km north of Mexico City.

How big is Saltillo?

Saltillo has a greater metro population of just under 1 million. The city stretches for some 20km north-south along the western slopes of the Sierra Madre Oriental.

What is the history of Saltillo?

Once the home of the Chichimeca people, Saltillo was founded by Spanish conquistador Alberto del Canto in 1577 – it’s the oldest Spanish settlement in northern Mexico. Despite del Canto’s brutal suppression, Chichimeca resistance meant the city remained small and insignificant well into the 18th century. The city finally grew as a trade and supply center for Mexico’s silver mines, its farms producing much of the nation’s wheat. The city changed hands several times during the Mexican Revolution – five Mexican presidents came from Coahuila, including Venustiano Carranza and Francisco Madero. Saltillo rapidly industrialized after World War II, with major US and German car manufacturers opening factories here.

How do I get to Saltillo?

Saltillo’s airport currently offers no passenger flights – the closest airport is at Monterrey, some 110 km to the northeast (Monterrey’s airport is well-connected to cities in the US and throughout Mexico). Buses shuttle between Monterrey’s bus station and Saltillo every hour and take around 1 hour 30 minutes. Taxis direct from Monterrey Airport to Saltillo are very expensive – Uber offers cheaper rates (around 1500 pesos), though drivers may be reluctant to pick up from the airport due to hostility from the airport taxi union. Comfortable first-class buses also connect Saltillo with Mexico City (every 1 to 2 hours; 10–12 hours); San Luis Potosí (hourly; 5 hours); and Zacatecas (hourly; 4 to 6 hours). Saltillo’s Centro de Autobuses (main bus station) lies 3km south of the city center – take a taxi from here. Taxis should use the meter, with most trips into the city center around 50 pesos.

What about Uber in Saltillo?

Uber does operate in Saltillo (assuming phones have roaming, and the app works), and getting an Uber within the city should be no problem – Uber can be cheaper than regular taxis in Saltillo.

Can I drive to Saltillo?

Driving to Saltillo down from the US border is relatively straightforward. However, the border state of Nuevo León has a reputation for violent crime and drug gang activity – definitely avoid driving at night. The drive from the Texas border at Laredo (185 miles or 298 km) takes just under 4 hours (it’s about the same from the border at McAllen/Reynosa). Note that foreign vehicles need a Mexican “Temporary Importation of Vehicle Permit”.
If renting a vehicle, it’s much easier to do this once across the Mexican border, as taking US rental vehicles into Mexico comes with all sorts of restrictions.

Do I need a car in Saltillo?

The city center of Saltillo is relatively small and it’s easy and cheap to get around on foot, by bus, or taxi (Uber is also available).

When is the best time to go to Saltillo?

Spring and the fall is the best time to go to Saltillo. Saltillo tends to have hot, humid summers (with August the wettest month), which can make sightseeing extremely uncomfortable – from mid-February to mid-May, and October to November, it is warm, dry, and sunny. Winters can be a little cooler (day-time temperatures rarely fall below 70°F), but also very dry.

Where should I stay in Saltillo?

Aim to stay in the atmospheric center of old Saltillo, close to all the sights, best restaurants, and attractions. Motel chains have sprung up around the city, near the major highways, and can offer good rates, but these are a long way from the action and it can be hassle shuttling in and out of the center. Our favorite place to stay is the Hotel Colonial San Miguel, an historic building with lots of character, comfy rooms, and a small pool.

What are the best things to do in Saltillo?

The best thing to do in Saltillo is to soak up the history. Saltillo is a relatively small colonial city but it’s loaded with historic architecture and museums – history buffs will especially love it, though Saltillo also boasts some of Mexico’s best nature museums; the Museo de las Aves de México (musave.org) showcases the numerous bird species found in Mexico, while the absorbing Museo del Desierto, 3 km east of the center, highlights the ecology of deserts, particularly of northern Mexico.

The traditional heart of the city is the blocks between Plaza de Armas and Plaza Acuña, the former home to the city’s gorgeous cathedral, and the latter location of Mercado Juárez, the main market and a good place to browse for souvenirs. Saltillo is especially famous for its sarapes (multicolored woolen shawls), sold at the market, or at craft shops such as El Sarape de Saltillo (Hidalgo 305). You can also learn about the history of sarape making at the Museo del Sarape y Trajes Mexicanos (Allende Sur 160).

It’s fun to simply wander Saltillo’s cobbled colonial streets, but the best of its (many) museums are the Museo de la Revolución Mexicana (Hidalgo Sur 167), which focuses on the Mexican Revolution and local boy made president Venustiano Carranza; and the Museo del Palacio on Plaza de Armas, inside the former Coahuila statehouse, with exhibitions on the history of Coahuila.

What are the restaurants like in Saltillo?

Although the restaurants in Saltillo are pretty good, they are not especially varied. We love La Canasta (Carranza 2485), which had been knocking out Mexican classics and decent steak since the 1960s (it is best known for “arroz Huerfano”, a rice dish made with ham, nuts, and bacon, and its homemade lemon meringue pie). Another local specialty, pan de pulque (wheat bread made with cinnamon and cactus juice) can be sampled at Pan de Pulque Los Álamos (Madero 1326), a local bakery. For coffee, pastries, and sandwiches it’s hard to beat atmospheric Cafeteria Kala, inside the Galería del Instituto Coahuilense on Plaza de Armas.

What currency is used in Saltillo?

The Mexican peso (often prefixed with a “$” sign) is the currency of Mexico and Saltillo. Most major shops and restaurants in Saltillo accept credit cards, but it is a good idea to have some peso cash on hand for museum entry and small purchases like bottled water and snacks. ATMs are easy to find in Saltillo around the two main plazas.

Is Saltillo expensive?

Saltillo is an affordable destination. Hotels in Saltillo are reasonably priced given their quality, and eating out is rarely expensive. You won’t spend much on transportation, and fees to enter museums are low, typically one or two US dollars equivalent.

Is Saltillo safe?

Saltillo has generally avoided the drug violence that has affected other parts of Mexico. Take the usual precautions, especially at night, and keep valuables in room safes.

Read More

Querétaro Travel Guide

Mexico › Querétaro
Updated: March 2, 2022

See Also

Rosewood tree in Querétaro Mexico

Of all Mexico’s colonial cities, Querétaro is one of our perennial favorites – loaded with historic gems, baroque churches, museums, shady plazas, and relaxed street cafés, but with a fraction of the tourists that visit the nation’s more famous destinations.

Frequently Asked Questions about Querétaro

Where is Querétaro?

Querétaro is the capital city of the Mexican state of Querétaro, located in the region of central Mexico known as the Bajío.

Querétaro lies about 215 km northwest of Mexico City, 65 km southeast of San Miguel de Allende, and 365 km east of Guadalajara. Non-stop flights to Querétaro take 1 hour from Mexico City, 1 hour 15 minutes from Monterrey, 2 hours 5 minutes from Houston, 2 hours 25 minutes from Dallas, and 2 hours 25 minutes from Cancún.

How big is Querétaro?

Querétaro has a greater metro population of just over 1 million – it’s one of the fastest growing (and richest) cities in Mexico. It covers an area of around 760 square kilometers, on the edge of the Sierra Madre Oriental.

What is the history of Querétaro?

Querétaro (“rocky place”) was once the home of the Otomi and Chichimeca peoples – at the time of the Spanish Conquest, it was part of the Aztec Empire. The Spanish settlement was officially founded in 1531 by Hernán Pérez Bocanegra y Córdoba and an Otomi leader known as Conín, but development was slow and it only became a town formally in 1606. Colonial Querétaro flourished thereafter, becoming one of the cradles of Mexican Independence.

It was here, meeting under the guise of Literary Associations, that the Independence conspirators made their earliest plans. In 1810 one of them, María Josefa Ortiz de Dominguez, wife of the town’s Corregidor (or governor – she is known as “La Corregidora”), found that her husband had learned of the movement’s intentions. Although locked in her room, La Corregidora managed to get a message out warning the revolutionaries, thus precipitating an unexpectedly early start to the struggle for independence.

Later, in 1867, the French-backed Emperor Maximilian was executed by a firing squad at Querétaro, and the city hosted an important assembly of Revolutionary politicians in 1916, leading eventually to the signing here of the 1917 Constitution, which is still in force today.

How do I get to Querétaro?

Querétaro is connected to the US by several non-stop flights, from Chicago, Dallas, Detroit, and Houston; domestic flights connect Querétaro with major destinations throughout Mexico. Flights from Canada or Europe will likely route through the USA or Mexico City.

Within Mexico, first-class long-distance buses are an economical and comfortable alternative to flying – buses to Querétaro from Guadalajara (4–5 hours), Mexico City (3–4 hours), and San Miguel de Allende (1 hour 15 minutes) operate every 30 minutes. Querétaro’s massive Central de Autobuses (bus station) lies 6km south of the city center. Arriving there it’s best to take a taxi to your hotel – these follow a fixed-rate system, with the current rates displayed at kiosks at the exit (pay here before getting in).

What are the options for Querétaro airport transportation?

Querétaro’s airport lies 32km northeast of the city center on the Hwy-200 towards Tequisquiapan. We recommend taking one of the airport taxis (around M$350) or an Uber to get to the hotel.

What about Uber in Querétaro?

Uber does operate in Querétaro (assuming phones have roaming, and the app works), and drivers will usually pick-up from the airport, though they do face the usual hostility from the airport taxi union. An Uber ride into the city should be cheaper – around 290 pesos – than regular taxis. Once in the city, getting an Uber should be no problem.

Can I drive to Querétaro?

Driving down to Querétaro from the US border is relatively straightforward – the main highways are good, and virtually empty outside the towns. However, the Mexican border states of Nuevo León and Tamaulipas have been affected by drug cartel violence – driving at night is definitely a bad idea. Check the latest travel advisories at travel.state.gov or ask the hotel. Cars also need a Mexican “Temporary Importation of Vehicle Permit”.

From Brownsville, Texas the drive is around 525 miles (845 km) and takes around 10 hours non-stop. Querétaro is 570 miles (917 km) from Laredo, Texas (11 hours), and 2590 km from Tijuana, on the southern border of California.
If renting a vehicle, it’s much easier to do this once across the Mexican border, as taking US rental vehicles into Mexico comes with all sorts of restrictions.

Do I need a car in Querétaro?

It’s easy to explore most of Querétaro’s city center on foot; otherwise call an Uber or take a local taxi (taxis have meters, initial fare 25 pesos). The city has an excellent public bus system (fares 11 pesos), but most tourists are unlikely to need it.

When is the best time to go to Querétaro?

Querétaro boasts a year-round temperate climate, with the driest and sunniest months October to April. Rain is most common July to August. There’s no real “bad” time to visit, though it can actually get chilly November to January. March through June is probably best, when the weather is pleasantly warm, the days generally dry, and crowds low-key.

Where should I stay in Querétaro?

The best place to stay in Querétaro is right in the historic heart (the centro histórico), close to all the sights, best restaurants, and attractions. Modern business hotels and cheaper motels line the highways on the outskirts of the city, but these are all a long way from the action and it can be hassle shuttling back and forwards. We like La Casa del Atrio, a posh B&B and spa with fabulous views and facilities, and the lavish Casa de la Marquesa (Madero 41), housed in a 1756 mansion with a gorgeous Mudéjar-style courtyard. Kuku Rukú and El Petate Hostel are our favorite budget options.

What are the best things to do in Querétaro?

Soak up the Querétaro’s colonial charm and be immersed in Mexico’s revolutionary history. Sip coffee at an outdoor café and take in the scene on Querétaro’s three main squares: the elegant Jardín Zenéa, Plaza de la Independencia, and Plaza de la Constitución. Learn about the Mexican War of Independence at the Museo de los Conspiradores (Andador 15 de Mayo no. 18), and the history of Querétaro state at the Museo Regional de Querétaro (Corregidora Sur 3). The story of the French Intervention and Emperor Maximilian is told at the Museo de la Restauración de la República (Guerrero 23), while the incredibly ornate Museo de Arte de Querétaro (Allende 14) is crammed with Mexican art from 17th-century to the present day.

Querétaro’s churches are similarly enticing, with our favorites the Templo de San Francisco on Jardín Zenéa, with a beautiful dome covered in azulejos (colored tiles); the Templo de Santa Clara (Madero 42), with its exuberant Baroque interior; and 18th-century Templo de Santa Rosa de Viterbo (Arteaga, at Montes), with another magnificent interior and a blue-and-white-tiled dome.

It’s also worth checking out the 19th-century Teatro de la República (Juárez at Ángela Peralta), where the Mexican Constitution was debated in 1917, and the quirky Museo Casa de la Zacatecana, an 18th-century mansion that preserves the grisly legend of its former owner (the evil Zacatecana murdered her husband).

For longer excursions, stroll out to Cerro de las Campañas, the “Hill of Bells” west of the center, or to the Convento de la Cruz (Ejército Republicano, at Felipe Luna), an old Spanish monastery that harbors the “Árbol de la Cruz”, a tree whose thorns sprout in the shape of little crosses.

What are the best things to do around Querétaro?

Querétaro makes a good base to explore the surrounding area, especially the hills of the Sierra Gorda. Some 60km east of Querétaro, the pretty village of Bernal is best known for the Peña de Bernal, a 350m-high peak of volcanic rock that towers over the area. Nearby Tequisquiapan is a gorgeous colonial Spanish town crammed with boutique hotels, spas, and craft markets.

What are the restaurants like in Querétaro?

Querétaro has excellent restaurants. The city is known for a couple of specialties; a thick lentil soup laced with chunks of dried fruit (“sopa regional”), and the local take on enchiladas (“enchiladas Queretanas”), fried with chili sauce, onions, and cheese. A good place to try them is Café del Fondo (Pino Suárez 9). Some of the best snack food in the city is knocked out at Tamales y Atoles Arteaga (Arteaga 48) a tamale specialist, while San Miguelito (Andador 5 de Mayo 39), is one of the city’s best Mexican restaurants. For something special try to snag a table at Chinicuil (Pasteur Sur 52), showcase for the contemporary creations of celebrity chef Alan Rodríguez. Since the COVID pandemic, the restaurant has been mobile (“nomada”), with pop-ups held throughout the city and announced on Instagram.

What currency is used in Querétaro?

The Mexican peso (often prefixed with a “$” sign) is the currency of Mexico and used in Querétaro. Most major shops and restaurants accept credit cards, but it is a good idea to have some peso cash on hand for museum entry and small purchases like bottled water and snacks. Banks and ATMs are easy to find in Querétaro, especially around Jardín Zenéa.

Is Querétaro expensive?

It’s easy to visit Querétaro on a modest budget. To save cash, stay in the cheaper B&Bs or hostels (budget Airbnb deals are also a viable option), and eat at local restaurants and taco stalls. Buses and taxis are cheap, and museum entry is rarely more than US$2–3.

Is Querétaro safe?

Querétaro has generally avoided the drug violence that has affected other parts of Mexico. Take the usual precautions, especially at night, and keep valuables in room safes.

Read More

Puerto Vallarta Travel Guide

Mexico › Puerto Vallarta
Updated: March 2, 2022

Puerto Vallarta Articles

Puerto Vallarta is a popular resort on the western, Pacific coast of Mexico, and one of our absolute favorite places to go in the country. Set on wide Banderas Bay – a favorite stop for migrating humpback whales – PV is best known for its wonderful beaches, tropical setting, charming old town, and vibrant watersports and nightclub scene.

Banderas Bay beach photo

The popular beach stretches along the entirety of Puerto Vallarta facing out to the beautiful Banderas Bay.

Frequently Asked Questions about Puerto Vallarta

Where is Puerto Vallarta?

Puerto Vallarta is a city in Mexico, a resort town on the Pacific Ocean located in the state of Jalisco (though its northern environs spill over into the state of Nayarit). Puerto Vallarta lies about 880 km west of Mexico City, 330 km west of Guadalajara, and 440 km south of Mazatlán. Non-stop flights to PV take 3 hours 25 minutes from San Francisco, 3 hours from Los Angeles, 2 hours 25 minutes from Houston, 2 hours 20 minutes from Phoenix, 1.5 hours from Mexico City and 40 minutes from Guadalajara.

How big is Puerto Vallarta?

Puerto Vallarta has a greater metro population of almost 380,000. The main city and busiest resort area stretch some 10km north to south at the center of vast Bahía de Banderas (Banderas Bay). Pristine beaches and smaller resorts fan out either side of this central zone – over 50km to the north, and 20km to the south by road, though the beaches continue westwards for another 30km, accessible by boat.

What is the history of Puerto Vallarta?

Puerto Vallarta was formally established in the 1850s as “Las Peñas”, though there had been small settlements of fishermen and smugglers along the bay for decades before. Initially developed as a port and supply hub by the Union en Cuale mining company, the town was renamed in 1918, after Ignacio L. Vallarta, former governor of Jalisco. It was a relatively sleepy place until the 1960s when the town was developed as an international resort by the Mexican government. Transportation links were improved, and tourism got a boost from John Huston’s The Night of the Iguana, starring Richard Burton, which was filmed in 1963 in Mismaloya, 10km south of central PV (Huston lived here until his death in 1987).

Guadalupe church city skyline

The iconic Our Lady of Guadalupe Church as part of the Puerto Vallarta skyline.

How do I get to Puerto Vallarta?

Puerto Vallarta is connected to the US and Canada by numerous non-stop flights; trips take anywhere from 2 hours 25 minutes to 8 hours, depending on the destination. Most domestic flights link PV with Guadalajara and Mexico City.

Within Mexico, first-class long-distance buses are an economical and comfortable alternative to flying – buses to Guadalajara (6 hours) and Mexico City (14 hours) operate hourly. PV’s Terminal de Autobuses (bus station) is around 12km north of the Old Town, off the main highway. Upon arrival, it’s best to take a taxi to the hotel – these follow a fixed-rate system, with the current rates displayed at the exit, but always confirm the cost before getting in.

What are the options for PV airport transportation?

Puerto Vallarta’s airport lies 10km north of the Old Town on the coastal highway (Hwy-200). Travelers with luggage should just get a taxi. Uber is available in PV, and presuming your mobile phone works in Mexico and has roaming, Uber rates tend to be 50 to 75 percent cheaper than the official airport taxis. However, Uber drivers are not allowed to pick-up from the airport (though they can drop off). Instead, depart the terminal, walk towards the highway and turn left – Uber cars can stop below the pedestrian bridge here. Cheap (less than US$1 in pesos) but crowded buses also run up and down the highway here, but these are only recommended for visitors with little luggage. Buses going south are marked “Olas Altas” or “Centro”; for destinations to the north, cross the footbridge and look for buses marked “Punta de Mita”. The other side of the footbridge is also where to pick up local taxis – these will be around 30 percent cheaper than airport taxis but fix the price before getting in.

If none of that appeals, splash out on an official airport taxi. Pay for these at kiosks outside the terminal – rates are tied to a zone system: US$17 (roughly 380 pesos) for Marina Vallarta; US$18 (400 pesos) for the Old Town/Zona Romántica; US$25 (550 pesos) for Nuevo Vallarta; and US$30 (670 pesos) for Mismaloya and Bucerías. All the major car rental firms have desks at the airport.

When is the best time to go to Puerto Vallarta?

Puerto Vallarta is at its best mid-April to June and October. April through June has the best weather; May and June have the best hotel deals, and October/November has the best water for snorkeling and diving. The rainy season usually runs late June into October.

malecon waterfront

The malecon walkway along the waterfront is one of the most popular areas for tourists, lined with restaurants, night clubs, art galleries, street performers and food vendors.

What are the main resort areas in Puerto Vallarta?

The city of Puerto Vallarta itself remains the main focus of resorts on the Bay of Banderas, with the Old Town in the center marking a convenient break between north and south. To the north, the “Zona Hotelera” fronts a long swath of beach up to the upscale Marina Vallarta development, while to the south lies the “Zona Romántica” and Playa de los Muertos, the most fun city beach. Beyond these built-up city beaches, the bay features several other resort areas with good links to central PV. North of Marina Vallarta, over the state line in what is dubbed the “Riviera Nayarit”, the bay curves for 30km to upscale Punta de Mita via Nuevo Vallarta and Bucerías. To the south, the coast road passes a series of enticing coves and beaches ending at Mismaloya – from here, small water taxis zip along the coast to Yelapa, stopping at remote beaches along the way.

What are the best beaches in Puerto Vallarta?

Our favorite beaches in Puerto Vallarta are Playa Caballo, a short water taxi ride from Boca de Tomatlán, with a tranquil setting, great sand, palm trees, and wonderful swimming; and Playa Colomitos, which has a real “hidden beach” feel (also accessible by boat or jungle trail). Playa de los Muertos in town has the deserved reputation for partying and a vibrant nightlife, as well as a growing LGBT scene. Playa Conchas Chinas and Playa Palito Verde are perfect for beach lovers looking for a quieter, more relaxed experience. For watersports, take a water taxi to Las Caletas or Las Ánimas.

Do I need a car in Puerto Vallarta?

Unless exploring along the edges of Banderas Bay, a car is not necessary in Puerto Vallarta. The city beaches are all easily accessible on foot or by taxi; the beaches to the south along the highway are easy to reach by cheap, regular buses from the Old Town, as well as by taxi. Beyond Boca de Tomátlan, travel is only by water taxi anyway.

The beaches to the north are strung out along 50km of coastline, so a car can save time here if the intent is to visit several. Cheap, local buses trundle up and down the coast all the way to Punta de Mita, but they can be frustratingly slow, and taxi rates are expensive for trips from PV beyond Nuevo Vallarta.

How do water taxis work in Puerto Vallarta?

Beaches south of Boca de Tomátlan can only be accessed by boat (or stiff hikes through the jungle). Water Taxis from Boca run to Las Ánimas (around 50 pesos; 10min) and Yelapa (around 80 pesos; 30min), but always check current schedules at the dock. More expensive water taxis depart Playa de los Muertos in the Zona Romántica, usually hourly in high season, for the same destinations. Private boats are also available, but these cost a lot more.

Buses to Mismaloya (20–25min) and Boca de Tomátlan (another 10min) depart from the Zona Romántica every 10–15min.

Where to change money in Puerto Vallarta?

Try to use ATMs to withdraw peso cash in PV (check with the bank before leaving to confirm it’s possible to use a debit card and how much they will charge – using credit cards can incur interest and fees). Otherwise, banks and cash exchange booths in the city tend to give better rates than anything at the airport.

Where should I stay in Puerto Vallarta?

For most travelers, the best places to stay in Puerto Vallarta are along the two main city beach areas – the Zona Hotelera and the Zona Romántica – for a good mix of sunbathing, dining, nightlife, and exploring, with a wide range of hotel prices from luxury to budget. These areas are well-connected to each other by bus or taxi, and within the areas themselves, everything is just a short walk away. Travelers looking to get away from the crowds may enjoy the more remote Mismaloya or Yelapa, or quieter strips near Nuevo Vallarta and Bucerías.

folkloric dancers

Folkloric dancers performing as part of a free public cultural program in downtown.

What are the best things to do in Puerto Vallarta?

The best things to do in Puerto Vallarta are connected with the beaches; swimming, surfing, sunbathing, and various watersports. Other pleasures include dining, drinking, and shopping – particularly the growing number of art galleries – in the Old Town, admiring the views and statues on the Malecón, visiting the main church, the Templo de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe, perusing the Mercado Municipal del Cuale, aka the Flea Market, and paying homage to John Huston’s statue and the small museum on the Isla Río Cuale, in the middle of the river that divides the Old Town and the Zona Romántica. Boats depart Mismaloya for snorkeling to Los Arcos, a group of tiny islets surrounded by an underwater reserve, and everyone should take a water taxi to visit the remote beaches south of Boca de Tomatlán. For a break from all things saltwater, take a taxi or bus to the tranquil Vallarta Botanical Gardens in the hills above Boca de Tomatlán or take a zipline ride with Los Veranos Canopy Tour or Canopy River.

Taking a guided tour is a great way to get to know the region beyond the city and the beaches. Some of our favorite PV tours include the cruises operated by Puerto Vallarta Tours and Vallarta Adventures, while Chico’s Dive Shop operates excellent snorkeling and dive trips to the nearby underwater reserve.

What are the restaurants like in Puerto Vallarta?

The restaurants in Puerto Vallarta are extremely varied and international. Along the main beaches and in the Old Town are classic beach bar/restaurants such as Daíquiri Dicks with its “Pescado Vallarta” (whole grilled fish served on a stick), and Joe Jack’s Fish Shack, as well as gourmet restaurants such as Chef Thierry Blouet’s French-styled Café des Artistes, and Mediterranean specialist Trio. Further inland are no-frills taco stands popular with locals that are not to be missed.

What currency is used in Puerto Vallarta?

The Mexican peso (often prefixed with a “$” sign) is the currency of Mexico, though many hotels in Puerto Vallarta will quote rates in US dollars. Most major shops and restaurants in PV accept credit cards, but it is a good idea to have some peso cash on hand for bus trips and small purchases like bottled water and snacks. ATMs are easy to find in PV and along the bay. Note that although US dollars (cash) are accepted in some shops, taxis, and restaurants, change will usually be given in pesos at a poor exchange rate – it’s best to use pesos.

Is Puerto Vallarta expensive?

Puerto Vallarta certainly contains luxury hotels, exclusive beach clubs, designer shops, and pricey bars and restaurants, but it’s easy to visit PV on a modest budget. To save cash, simply choose hotels and local restaurants that are not directly on the water. All beaches are open to the public and free to visit, buses and water taxis are very cheap, and budget Airbnb deals are also a viable option all along the bay.

Is Puerto Vallarta safe?

Yes. Puerto Vallarta has generally avoided the drug violence that has affected other parts of Mexico. Take the usual precautions, especially at night, and keep valuables in room safes. Theft of personal items from beaches does happen – never leave anything of value unattended, even on seemingly empty stretches of sand.

Read More

Where to Stay in Palenque

Mexico › Best Places to Stay in Palenque
Updated: March 2, 2022

See Also

Palenque is a small city in southeastern Mexico, best known for its sensational Maya ruins, set on the edge of the rainforest, buzzing with colorful birds and the haunting cries of howler monkeys.

Frequently Asked Questions about Palenque

palenque mayan archaeological ruins

The ancient Mayan ruins complex of Palenque, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the rain forest of Chiapas.

Where is Palenque?
Palenque is a small modern city and adjacent archeological site in the southeastern Mexico state of Chiapas. Palenque lies around 270 km northeast of the Chiapas state capital Tuxtla Gutiérrez, 210 km northeast of San Cristobal de las Casas, 900 km southeast of Mexico City, and 835 km southwest of Cancún. Non-stop flights to Palenque take 1 hour 30 minutes from Mexico City.

How big is Palenque?
Palenque has a population of around 42,000, including a large Ch’ol (Maya) indigenous community. The city proper covers a relatively small area and is surrounded by rainforest. The archeological site and ancient Maya ruins of Palenque lies some 8 km southwest of the modern city center.

What is the history of Palenque?
The modern city of Palenque was formally established by Spanish missionary Pedro Lorenzo in 1567, as part of an effort to convert the rural Maya population to Christianity. It remained relatively isolated in the rainforest and was only designated a town in 1813 (it became a city in 1972). The main roads were finally paved in 1990. The ancient Maya city of Palenque is much older, and was already abandoned when the Spanish arrived (the Spanish discovered the ruins in 1740). The earliest remains at Palenque date from around 300 BC, but the city was at its peak in the Maya Late Classic Period (c. 600–900 AD). Not much is known about the people that once lived here, though a list of kings, beginning with K’uk’ Bahlam I (431–435 AD), has been uncovered. The most famous king was Pakal the Great (615–683 AD), who initiated much of Palenque’s later construction. Palenque was abandoned by the Maya sometime in the 9th century, for reasons that are still unknown, though the most recent theories have focused on ecological factors, such as long-term drought.

How do I get to Palenque?
Palenque Airport (about 5 km northwest of the city center) serves just one route, the Interjet service from Mexico City – take a taxi into the center from here (250–300 pesos). Otherwise most travelers arrive by bus. Buses to Palenque from Campeche (5 hours 35 minutes); Cancún (around 13 hours); Mexico City (around 14 hours 30 minutes) and San Cristóbal (5 hours) arrive at the first-class bus terminal on the traffic circle in the center of the city, within walking distance of many hotels. Another option is to take a guided tour of Palenque from San Cristóbal de las Casas (via the waterfalls at Agua Azul), and ask to be dropped off in Palenque instead of returning to San Cristóbal. Hiring a taxi/driver is also possible but expensive; reckon on US$100–150 from San Cristóbal (5 hours) or a bit less from Villahermosa Airport in Tabasco (just 2 hours).

Is the overland route safe?
The main road to Palenque (north from San Cristóbal and south from the Yucatán) can be subject to closures by the local indigenous communities (during disputes with the government) and can result in lengthy delays – check the current situation at your hotel before buying tickets. Hold-ups of buses are very rare but can happen at night – robberies on buses at night have also been reported. Taking first-class ADO bus services during the day should ensure a safe trip.

What about Uber?
Uber does not yet operate in Palenque.

Can I drive to Palenque?
Yes, but it’s not recommended. It’s almost 1000 miles (1610 km) to Brownsville, Texas, and the roads in Chiapas can be rough (and unsafe at night). Drivers also need a Mexican “Temporary Importation of Vehicle Permit”.

Do I need a car in Palenque?
No. The center of the city is very small and easy to walk around on foot. The only journey requiring transport is the 8 km (or less, if staying in a hotel on route) ride to and from the Maya ruins; small minivans (colectivos) zip between the city center and ruins every few minutes (operated by Transportes Palenque). Just flag them down (around 35 pesos). Taxis are also plentiful in town and charge around 120 pesos for the ride to the ruins – fix the price before getting in.

When is the best time to go to Palenque?
November to February, when the weather is warm and relatively dry. Palenque has a tropical climate – it’s very hot March to May, and humid and rainy June to October, though the hotels will be a little cheaper at this time. Avoid Christmas and Easter, when domestic tourists pour into Palenque.

Where should I stay in Palenque?

palenque queens bath waterfall

‘The Queen’s Bath’ waterfall in the forest within the Palenque Archaeological Zone.

There are three main choices in terms of area: the busy city center near the main plaza; the more residential and quieter neighborhood of La Cañada, just north of the bus station; and along the jungle-lined road to the ruins.

The city center offers the cheapest rates and proximity to services (banks, tour companies, laundries, restaurants and so on). We like the modern Hotel Maya Rue, on Aldama, between Juárez and 5 de Mayo, two blocks from the main plaza, and the newer Casa 5 B&B at Emilio Rabasa 45.

La Cañada is a bit more upmarket, and is a lot more tranquil – this is a good compromise as it’s still within walking distances of most services and restaurants. Recommended options here include Maya Tulipanes at Cañada 6, which has a pool, and friendly Hotel Museo Xibalba at Merle Green 9, which has a roof terrace.

The hotels on the road to the ruins tend to be better quality and more expensive – obviously more convenient for the ruins (there’s not much to see in town anyway), but less choices when it comes to eating and services, without zipping back and forth into town. Top of the pile is the luxurious Quinta Chanabnal (2 km from the city center), while the more affordable but recommended Chan-Kah Resort Village (3 km from the center) has the most attractive pool in Palenque.

What are the best things to do in Palenque?
There’s only one reason to come here – the ancient Maya ruins of Palenque (officially “Zona Arqueológica Palenque”), some of the most atmospheric in Mexico (there’s nothing to see in the modern city of Palenque). Though the ruins here resemble the Maya sites in Guatemala, Palenque developed its own distinctive architectural style. Highlights include the huge “Templo de las Inscripciones” step-pyramid (which still contains the original sarcophagus of Pakal the Great), and the unique square tower and beautiful relief carvings of “El Palacio”. The site’s location is also fabulous, surrounded by jungle-smothered hills, with stunning views of the pancake-flat Yucatán peninsular visible from the pyramids.

Palenque’s excellent museum, 1.5 km before the main entrance to the ruins, offers the best introduction to the site and displays many of the most important artifacts found here, including a replica of Pakal the Great’s engraved sarcophagus lid. The ruins are open daily and cost 80 pesos.

What are the best things to do around Palenque?

palenque misol ha jungle waterfall

The amazing Misol-Há waterfall. There is a pathway to walk behind the cascade, and you are able to swim in the pool below.

Numerous tour companies offer similarly priced trips to attractions around Palenque, notably the waterfalls at Agua Azul and Misol-Há. These are both beautiful and worth seeing – Agua Azul is the bigger and more developed site (and can be mobbed during holidays), while you can swim safely in the pool of water at the bottom of the falls at Misol-Há. Much longer day-trips take in the Maya ruins of Bonampak and Yaxchilán – both spectacular sites and well worth the time and expense (it’s much easier to visit these sites on a guided tour than solo). Recommended local operators include Na Chan Kan and Turistica Chambajlum.

What are the restaurants like?
Nothing special, but there are plenty of cheap places serving typical Mexican food and international favorites such as pasta and pizza in the city center, and better restaurants attached to the bigger hotels. Some of our favorites include Café de Yara in the city center (Hidalgo 66), which serves excellent coffee and breakfasts, then morphs into a fun bar at night. For no-frills but cheap and tasty Mexican food, try Taquería Tropitacos at Central Poniente 49, a block west of the main plaza. In La Cañada our go-to for Mexican staples is Maya Cañada Felíz (Merle Green 10), while Don Mucho (Carretera Ruinas-Palenque km 4.5) on the road to the ruins has relaxed outdoor seating, a decent international menu, and nightly live music.

What currency is used in Palenque?
The Mexican peso (often pre-fixed with a “$” sign) is the currency of Mexico and used in Palenque – businesses will generally not accept US dollars. Bring lots of pesos to Palenque – some shops and restaurants accept credit cards, but many don’t, and for bus trips and small purchases like bottled water and snacks, cash is king.

Where to change money in Palenque?
Using local ATMs will generally be cheaper than changing money at hotels or at casa de cambios (which will take a commission). Several banks along Juárez in the city center have ATMs – these will usually have cash Monday to Friday during bank opening hours, but can run out at night or at the weekends. There’s also an ATM at the bus terminal, but we don’t recommend using this (or any other ATM not attached to a bank branch), as these can get hacked by credit card scammers.

Is Palenque expensive?
No – hotels are good value and unless it’s a public holiday in Mexico, competitively priced. Budget airbnb deals are also a viable option. The local restaurants and buses/taxis are cheap, and the ruins are less than US$4 to enter.

Is Palenque safe?
Yes. Palenque itself has generally avoided the drug violence that has affected other parts of Mexico. Take the usual precautions, especially at night, and keep your valuables in room safes.

Read More

Oaxaca Travel Guide

Mexico › Oaxaca
Updated: March 2, 2022

See Also

Piñata on street in Oaxaca Mexico

Oaxaca is a historic city in Mexico, and one of our absolute favorite places to go in the country. Oaxaca is best known for its colonial architecture, unique cuisine (especially its mole sauces), markets, and its rich indigenous cultures (especially Zapotec and Mixtec).

Frequently Asked Questions about Oaxaca

oaxaca gazebo plaza

The gazebo at the center of the main plaza in the center of Oaxaca.

Where is Oaxaca?

Oaxaca is a city in Mexico, serving as the capital of the southeastern state of Oaxaca. The city lies at the heart of the state in the Valles Centrales region, on the edge of the Sierra Madre. Oaxaca lies about 460 km southeast of Mexico City, 340 km southeast of Puebla, and 450 km south of Veracruz. Non-stop flights to Oaxaca take 3 hours 50 minutes from Los Angeles, 2 hours 55 minutes from Dallas, and just 50 minutes from Mexico City.

How big is Oaxaca?

Oaxaca has a greater metro population of around 650,000. The city lies along the valley of the Atoyac River, between the foothills of the Sierra Madre.

What is the history of Oaxaca?

Located within the Mixtec and Zapotec heartlands, the Oaxaca area was initially of little interest to the Spanish. A small settlement was established in the 1520s, but Oaxaca possessed nothing in the way of mineral wealth and had little agricultural value (some coffee was grown here, however). Despite being the home of two presidents in the 19th century – Benito Juárez and Porfirio Díaz – Oaxaca remained a backwater, it’s indigenous cultures largely maintaining their traditions. The biggest event of recent decades were the 2006 Oaxaca protests, when striking teachers clashed with riot police, initially over low wages and later over political corruption.

How do I get to Oaxaca?

Oaxaca is connected to the US by several non-stop flights, notably from Dallas and Los Angeles, and to a handful of cities within Mexico; flights from Canada and Europe route through Mexico City or the US. Within Mexico, first-class long-distance buses are an economical and comfortable alternative to flying – buses to Oaxaca from Mexico City (6 hours) and Puebla (4 hours 30 minutes); operate hourly. Oaxaca’s first-class bus terminal is at Calzada Niños Héroes de Chapultepec 1036, uphill from and northeast from the city center; arriving here it’s best to take a taxi (around 50 pesos).

Monte Alban ruins

The ancient ruins of Monte Alban on the outskirts of the city make a for a great day trip.

What are the options for Oaxaca airport transportation?

Oaxaca’s airport (Aeropuerto Internacional Xoxocotlán) lies 10km south of the center. Take a taxi from here: shared (colectivo) and private cars are available (from 90 pesos for colectivo, to 350 pesos for private cars); buy tickets at the kiosk in the terminal before leaving. Colectivos are just as reliable/safe as private taxis but can take up to 30 minutes longer depending on how many stops they make.

Can I use Uber in Oaxaca?

Uber is not available in Oaxaca. Chinese-owned DiDi, a similar ride-sharing app, does operate in Oaxaca and can offer slightly cheaper rates than taxis, but we’d recommend sticking with regular taxis for first-time visitors.

Can I drive to Oaxaca?

It’s possible to drive to Oaxaca, but it’s not recommended. The drive down from the US border is long (800 miles/1287 km), the route is complicated, and the Mexican border states of Nuevo León and Tamaulipas have been affected by drug cartel violence. In addition, the roads in and around Oaxaca are often congested and confusing to navigate.

Do I need a car in Oaxaca?

The historic center of Oaxaca is best appreciated on foot (and isn’t that big in any case). Local taxis are also available and relatively cheap (50 to 60 pesos for trips within the center).

oaxaca plaza dancing

Public concerts in the plaza are popular with locals and tourists alike.

When is the best time to go to Oaxaca?

Sub-tropical Oaxaca is at its best November through February, when it’s cool, sunny, and dry, though visiting from March to May is usually fine – not uncomfortably hot and still relatively dry. The summer (June to October) is warm and relatively wet. Avoid Easter, Christmas, and any Mexican public holiday to avoid crowds of domestic tourists and high hotel prices (July and August also tend to be more expensive because of Mexican school holidays).

Where should I stay in Oaxaca?

Aim to stay in the atmospheric old center of Oaxaca, close to all the sights, best restaurants, and attractions. Unless it’s a public holiday, there should be lots of choices, from hostels to luxurious boutiques, and most hotels occupy beautiful historic properties. We like mid-range B&B Casa de las Bugambilias (Reforma 402), decked out with work by local artists, and the more luxurious Hotel Parador San Miguel (Avenida Independencia 503), set around a colonial courtyard.

For a real splurge consider Quinta Real (5 de Mayo), a converted convent with large pool and top-notch restaurants.

Our favorite budget options include Las Golondrinas (Tinoco y Palacios 411), and the city’s best hostel, Hostel Don Niño (Pino Suárez 804), which has dorms and good private rooms, breakfast included.

What are the best things to do in Oaxaca?

oaxaca museum rufono Tamayo

The Rufino Tamayo Museum in Oaxaca.

Soak up the charming atmosphere in the old town, and go craft shopping in Oaxaca’s vibrant markets. Plaza de la Constitución, the main square, is ringed by languid cafes and often hosts fiestas and musical performers. Here also is the city’s grand cathedral and mural-smothered Palacio de Gobierno. Of Oaxaca’s many colonial churches, the most spectacular are 17th-century Santo Domingo de Guzmán, one of the finest examples of Mexican Baroque in the country, and the Basílica Menor de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, which contains a revered statue of the Virgin Mary.

The city is also crammed with museums – our favorites are the Museo de las Culturas (1a. Cerrada de Macedonio Alcala), which chronicles the history of Oaxaca since Mixtec times, and the Museo Rufino Tamayo (Av. Paseo de la Reforma 51), housing the Mesoamerican artifacts collected by local abstract artist Tamayo.

Saturday is the best day for markets in Oaxaca; all sorts of colorful produce is sold at Mercado Benito Juárez, along with stalls offering local mescal, cheese, and mole sauce powders. The nearby Mercado 20 de Noviembre is crammed with food and snack stalls, while the best place for indigenous handicrafts is Mercado de Artesanías (20 de Noviembre, between Mina and Zaragoza). On the edge of the old town, sprawling Mercado de Abastos is the city’s general market, where everything from fruit to furniture is sold.

What are the best things to do around Oaxaca?

Numerous operators run half-day trips out of Oaxaca to the spectacular Zapotec ruins of Monte Albán, just outside the city, as well the Mixtec and Zapotec villages in the surrounding valleys. Try Oaxaca Tours, or René at Las Bugambilias Tours.

Oaxaca cuisine food sauce preparation

Preparing a traditional pasilla chili sauce in a restaurant. Oaxaca is full of excellent regional cuisine.

What are the restaurants like in Oaxaca?

The restaurants in Oaxaca are excellent – Oaxacan cuisine is one of Mexico’s most celebrated. Oaxaca’s nickname is the “land of the seven moles” after its best-known sauces: mole negro is the most popular, made with chocolate. Moles typically accompany chicken or enchiladas, served at street stalls as much as gourmet restaurants. Other local specialties include deep-fried grasshoppers known as chapulines, and tlayudas, giant crispy tortillas.

Our favorite restaurants include Casa Oaxaca (Constitución 104-A), which serves traditional and contemporary versions of Oaxacan food, and elegant Restaurante Catedral (García Vigil 105). For the best and cheapest tacos in the city, make for Lechoncito de Oro, on the corner of Calle de Los Libres and Murguía. For cheap and tasty lunch deals (and mescal margaritas) try Los Danzantes (Alcalá 403) in the courtyard of the Plaza Comercial. For something really special, book a table at Zandunga (García Vigil 512-E), a colorful spot specializing in contemporary Oaxacan food.

Does Oaxaca have cooking classes?

Oaxaca is a great place to learn to cook Mexican and Oaxacan food. Chef Oscar Carrizosa runs popular classes at Casa Crespo (Jacobo Dalevuelta 200), while Reyna Mendoza’s El Sabor Zapoteco (Avenida Benito Juárez 30) is an indigenous-run school in nearby Teotitlán del Valle.

Does Oaxaca have places to learn Spanish?

Oaxaca is also a fun place to learn Spanish. Recommended schools include small-scale Amigos del Sol (Calz. San Felipe del Agua 322) and Becari Language School (M. Bravo 210 and Gómez Farías 118). For a bigger range and more formal lessons checkout Instituto Cultural Oaxaca (Av Benito Juárez 909).

Does Oaxaca have ways to volunteer?

Oaxaca remains one of the poorest states in Mexico. For information about donations and volunteering, contact local charities such as Oaxaca Streetchildren Grassroots, and Fundación En Vía.

What currency is used in Oaxaca?

The Mexican peso (often prefixed with a “$” sign) is the currency of Mexico and Oaxaca. Most major shops and restaurants in Oaxaca accept credit cards, but it is a good idea to have some peso cash on hand for museum entry and small purchases like bottled water and snacks. ATMs are easy to find in Oaxaca around the main plaza.

Is Oaxaca expensive?

There are so many hotels in Oaxaca prices are competitive, and there are plenty of cheap places to eat, from local canteens to taco stalls. Taxis are cheap and museums rarely charge more than US$2–3 equivalent.

Is Oaxaca safe?

Oaxaca has generally avoided the drug violence that has affected other parts of Mexico. Take the usual precautions, especially at night, and keep valuables in room safes.

Read More

Monterrey Travel Guide

Mexico › Monterrey
Updated: March 2, 2022

See Also

Mountains over downtown Monterrey.

The third-largest city in Mexico rarely attracts overseas tourists but it’s one of our favorite big cities, with some excellent contemporary museums and tons of character. This is the modern, dynamic face of Mexico, where colonial churches and cantinas stand side-by-side with the tallest skyscrapers in the country.

Frequently Asked Questions about Monterrey

Where is Monterrey?

Monterrey is the capital of the northeastern Mexican state of Nuevo León, in the foothills of the Sierra Madre Oriental. Monterrey lies some 222 km (138 miles) west of the US border at Reynosa/McAllen (Texas), 225 km (140 miles) south of the US border at Laredo, Texas, and about 910 km north of Mexico City.

Non-stop flights to Monterrey take 1hr 30 minutes from Dallas, 1hr 30 minutes from Guadalajara, 1hr 35 minutes from Mexico City, 1hr 35 minutes from Houston, 2 hours 40 minutes from Tijuana, and 2 hours 45 minutes from Atlanta.

gran plaza police

Police assembled in the Gran Plaza, the 7th largest plaza in the world.

How big is Monterrey?

Monterrey has a greater metro population of over 4.5 million. The city proper covers an area of 325 square kilometers (125 square miles).

What is the history of Monterrey?

With the help of a small group of colonists, Spanish conquistador Diego de Montemayor founded Monterrey in 1596 – he also served as governor of Nuevo León during its early years. Yet the settlement remained small and insignificant well into the 19th century. Iconic Mexican brewery Cervecería Cuauthemoc was founded in 1890, and steel production began in 1900, fueling an economic boom that continues today – the city boasts Mexico’s two tallest buildings, the T.Op Torre 1 (Torres Obispado) and Torre KOI in the burgeoning business district of San Pedro Garza Garcia.

How do I get to Monterrey?

Monterrey is connected to the US by numerous non-stop flights, with flights from Dallas taking just 1hr 30 minutes. Monterrey Airport is also a major domestic hub, with services to almost every major city in Mexico. Flights from Canada, Europe, and the rest of the world generally route through Mexico City or airports in the US.

Within Mexico, first-class long-distance buses are an economical and comfortable alternative to flying – buses from Monterrey to Mexico City (11–12 hours), San Luis Potosí (7hr) and Zacatecas (7hr–7hr 30min) operate hourly. Buses also shuttle back and forth to the US border at Nuevo Laredo (3hr) and Reynosa (3hr).

Monterrey’s enormous Central de Autobuses (bus station) at Avenida Cristóbal Colón 855 lies 3km northwest of the central Macroplaza. Cuauhtémoc metro station is just next door, but when carrying a lot of luggage take a taxi (insist on the meter being turned on).

riverwalk tour boat

Boat tour along The Santa Lucia riverwalk, an artificial river that runs through the center of the city.

What are the options for Monterrey airport transportation?

Monterrey’s airport lies 6km or so northeast of the city center. We recommend getting a taxi into the city to save time – taxi fares are set according to a zone system, with the center around M$330 and San Pedro Garza García M$380 (buy a ticket at the terminal before exiting). Cheaper buses do shuttle between the airport and the Central de Autobuses (see above), every hour (and take around 45 minutes) for around 100 pesos, but you’ll still have to get to your hotel from there.

What about Uber in Monterrey?

Uber does operate in Monterrey (assuming phones have roaming, and the app works), but drivers are usually reluctant to pick-up from the airport due to hostility from the airport taxi union. However, an Uber can be taken back to the airport for as low as 240 pesos. Once in the city, getting an Uber should be no problem, and can be cheaper than regular taxis.

Various other ride-sharing apps operate in Monterrey, with Chinese-owned DiDi offering slightly cheaper rates, and Estonia-based Bolt another alternative, but we’d recommend sticking with Uber for first-time visitors.

Can I drive to Monterrey?

Driving down to Monterrey from the US border is relatively straightforward, and the highways are pretty good (and fast). However, the state of Nuevo León has a reputation for violent crime and drug gang activity – definitely avoid driving at night. The drive from the Texas border at Laredo takes just under 3 hours (it’s about the same from the border at McAllen/Reynosa). Note that foreign vehicles need a Mexican “Temporary Importation of Vehicle Permit”.

If renting a vehicle, it’s much easier to do this once across the Mexican border, as taking US rental vehicles into Mexico comes with all sorts of restrictions.

museum of contemporary art

Entrance to MARCO, The Museum of Contemporary Art.

Do I need a car in Monterrey?

It’s relatively easy and cheap to get around Monterrey on foot, by light rail, or taxi. Driving in the city can be a challenge (it’s often very congested, signage is poor, and road layout is confusing). It can be useful to have a vehicle to explore the surrounding area, though the bigger sights are all well-served by public bus or guided tours.

How do I get around Monterrey without a vehicle?

It’s easy to explore most of Monterrey’s city center on foot, or call an Uber or take a local taxi. If hailing taxes, be sure to use meters, which start at 8.80 pesos (10.55 pesos 10 pm–4 am) – trips anywhere in the center will rarely be more than 50 pesos.

Though the routes are somewhat limited for tourists, the speediest way to get around the city is to take the clean and efficient Metrorrey light rail system. It’s simple to use and rides cost just 4.50 pesos per journey.

When is the best time to go to Monterrey?

Spring and Fall are the best times to go to Monterrey. Monterrey tends to have hot, humid summers (with September the wettest month), which can make sightseeing extremely uncomfortable – from mid-February to mid-May, and October to November, it is warm, dry, and sunny. Winters can be a little cooler (day-time temperatures rarely fall below 70°F), but also very dry.

What are the main districts/neighborhoods of Monterrey?

The traditional heart of Monterrey is the Macroplaza (officially Plaza Zaragoza, or just the “Gran Plaza”), ringed by government buildings and museums. To the east lies the Barrio Antiguo, the city’s Old Town, while to the west (“Zona Rosa”) and north (just “Centro”) is the modern commercial and business districts. Beyond the city proper lie two sprawling suburbs that have become major business and residential districts in their own right in recent years: posh, skyscraper-heavy San Pedro Garza García to the southwest, and industrial San Nicolás de los Garza to the north.

sidewalk market

A weekend market in the old city, Barrio Antiguo neighborhood.

Where should I stay in Monterrey?

First-time visitors to Monterrey should aim to stay near the Macroplaza, in the heart of the city – almost everything will be within walking distance or short taxi rides. Newer hotels and chain motels lie on the outskirts or in the “Valle” area near San Pedro Garza García, but these primarily target business travelers or those with cars – they are a long way from the main tourist sights. We like the Gamma Monterrey Gran Hotel Ancira, an Art Nouveau beauty opened in 1912. The iStay Hotel Monterrey Histórico is a cheaper, contemporary alternative.

What are the best things to do in Monterrey?

Monterrey is best known for its excellent museums. The Macroplaza itself is a Modernist, mostly green space enlivened by squawking red-crowned Amazon parrots and the city’s 18th-century cathedral. The plaza is also the seventh largest plaza in the world. The main draw here is the Museo de Arte Contemporáneo (MARCO), an innovative showcase for changing exhibitions of mostly Latin American (particularly Mexican) artists. It’s worth strolling the narrow streets of Barrio Antiguo just to the east, dotted with colorful adobe houses dating from the 1890s, independent galleries, and the city’s best bars and clubs.

At the northern end of the Macroplaza, the elegant former state government building is now the Museo del Palacio, a high-tech museum charting the Nuevo León’s transition from colony to federal state. The equally innovative Museo de Historia Mexicana chronicles Mexican national history, while the Museo del Noreste focuses on the history of northeast Mexico (including the US state of Texas). From the museums, take a tranquil boat ride along the Paseo Santa Lucía to the green swathe of Parque Fundidora, where a former steel-processing plant has been converted into another fascinating museum the Museo del Acero. The other must-sees in Monterrey include El Obispado, the bishop’s palace on top of a hill to the west of downtown, the glass exhibits at the Museo del Vidrio, and venerable Cervecería Cuauhtémoc Moctezuma, where tours of the brewery and plenty of fresh beers are offered.

What are the best things to do around Monterrey?

Monterrey makes a good base to explore the surrounding area. It’s a relatively easy outing to the impressive caverns of Parque Grutas de García, and the pretty historic village of Santiago, some 35km south of Monterrey. The nearby city of Saltillo makes for a fuller day-trip, packed with colonial architecture, museums, and shops selling traditional sarapes (multicolored woolen shawls). Buses shuttle between Saltillo and Monterey hourly (1 hour 30 minutes).

What are the restaurants like in Monterrey?

Restaurants in Monterrey are pretty good, with the usual range of Mexican options as well as international chains, though the focus is traditionally on meat-eaters, with regional specialties such as cabrito al pastor or cabrito asado (whole roast kid goat). The best place to try these is El Rey del Cabrito (Constitución Ote 817), while the excellent La Divina (Montemayor Sur 507) serves quality Mexican dishes conveniently close to the museums. For a treat, get a taxi to Pangea (Roble 660), showcase for the gourmet cuisine of local celebrity chef Guillermo González Beristáin.

government palace

The historic Government Palace building in downtown.

What currency is used in Monterrey?

The Mexican peso (often prefixed with a “$” sign) is the currency of Mexico – US dollars and other foreign currencies will not be accepted in Monterrey. Most major shops and restaurants in Monterrey accept credit cards, but it is a good idea to have some peso cash on hand for bus trips and small purchases like bottled water and snacks. ATMs are easy to find in the center (especially on Padre Mier).

Is Monterrey expensive?

Monterrey certainly contains luxury hotels, designer shops, and pricey bars and restaurants, but it’s easy to visit the city on a modest budget. Most hotels are reasonably priced, budget Airbnb deals are also a viable option, museum entry fees are low (US$2–3) and public transport is cheap.

Is Monterrey safe?

Monterrey is safe for tourists. Monterrey is a big city, and does suffer from crime – take the usual precautions, especially at night (get hotels and restaurants to order taxis), and keep valuables in room safes.
Mexico’s drug wars have also taken their toll on the city and the surrounding areas, but despite the headlines drug gangs rarely, if ever, target tourists and the main, well-policed tourist areas of Monterrey are usually safe and violence-free.

Read More

Mexico City Travel Guide

Mexico › Mexico City
Updated: March 1, 2022

Mexico City Articles

Mexico City zocalo plaza

The zocalo square is the heartbeat of the nation, in the center of downtown Mexico City. The plaza hosts public concerts, social, cultural, and political events throughout the year.

Frequently Asked Questions about Mexico City

Where is Mexico City?

Mexico City is located in the Valley of Mexico, an inland basin in the center of Mexico. It sits at an altitude of 7,350 ft (2,240 meters), so it’s not uncommon for visitors to the Mexican capital to experience shortness of breath while climbing stairs and pyramids. Mexico City is surrounded on three sides by the Estado de México, part of which is considered to be within the city’s metropolitan area.

How big is Mexico City?

Mexico City’s population is estimated at 21,782,378 in 2020, making it the most populous city in North America. This number includes Mexico City proper and its adjacent suburban areas. Without counting its metropolitan area, Mexico City occupies a land area of 571 square miles (1,479 square km) and has an estimated population of 8,918,653 (based on 2016 estimates).

What is the history of Mexico City?

Mexico City was founded by the Aztecs on the shores of what was once a lake, which explains why parts of the city sink a few inches each year (visitors can notice that by standing in front of the Cathedral). In 1521, the city of Tenochtitlán —as it was known back then— was colonized by the Spaniards and it became known as the New Spain. Three centuries later, the country gained its independence and changed its name to Estados Unidos Mexicanos (United Mexican States).

How do I get to Mexico City?

Flights to Mexico City take 3.5 hours from Los Angeles, 4.5 hours from New York City, and about 2 hours from Cancún. As a major hub, it also has direct flights to/from most European capitals and several South American cities. The flight from London takes around 12 hours and flying from Sao Paulo usually takes around 9.5 hours.

Alternatively, Americans who live near the border can cross by land and take a low-cost flight from Tijuana.

When is the best time to go to Mexico City?

Visitors who are after warm weather would do well to visit around spring break when the city is at its warmest. Contrary to logic, summer is not actually warm in Mexico City: it rains every evening and clouds abound during the day. Those wanting to avoid the crowds should visit in December when local Mexicans flock to the beaches. The sky tends to be blue during that time, there’s virtually no traffic, and no rain —the one downside is that days are shorter. Rainy season extends from May/June to October each year, although seasons have been a bit erratic in recent years.

Mexico City Xochimilco boats

Floating the canals of Xochimilco, boats carrying live mariachi musicians serenade visitors, and sell delicious food and cold drinks.

What neighborhoods should I visit in Mexico City?

Mexico City is huge, but there are some neighborhoods that hold more of an interest to visitors and expats alike. Trendy Roma and Condesa are an obvious place to start, with their myriad restaurants, bars, shops, and weekend popup markets. Swankier Polanco has fine dining options visitors will want to check out, as well as parks to take a stroll and check out daily city life (our recommendation is Parque Lincoln). Further south, the neighborhoods of Coyoacán and San Angel offer a dose of culture. Coyoacán is home to Frida Kahlo’s home turned museum, Casa Azul, and San Angel’s cobbled streets are at their best on Saturdays, when an artisanal market takes hold of the neighborhood. Any day of the week is good to check out Centro Histórico, the city’s historic center, where colonial architecture and pre-Hispanic ruins converge, evidencing Mexico City’s multicultural history.

Where should I stay in Mexico City?

It’s a good idea to stay in central areas of the city in order to move around easily. Hotels along Paseo de la Reforma avenue and in the Polanco neighborhood offer the possibility to get to know the city on foot. The same is true of Roma and Condesa, although accommodation options in those areas tend to be of the smaller boutique hotel variety or Airbnbs. The city center (centro histórico) has lovely colonial buildings but it can get extremely crowded during the day and it’s a bit sketchy to walk around at night, so it might not be for everyone. Check out our best places to stay in Mexico City post for more details.

How do I get around in Mexico City?

Mexico City has an extensive public transportation system, but Ubers are very cheap compared to other countries, so they’re a convenient way to get around (especially for those traveling with kids). The Metrobús is preferable to the Metro, as it runs on its own lane along some of the city’s main avenues, allowing travelers to see the city instead of being stuck underground. Taxis are safe so long as they come from a taxi stand (taxi de sitio) instead of hailing them from the street. Hotels and restaurants can call a taxi de sitio for patrons. Ask for the fee and agree to it before getting in the car in order to avoid expensive surprises. The city also has a shared bike system that runs very well, along with a scooter rental service.

What does CDMX mean?

Visitors to Mexico may have seen the bright colorful letters spelling town and city names in town squares across the country. In Mexico City, those letters can be found at the Zócalo (the city’s main square) and they spell out “CDMX,” which stands for Ciudad de México. Once called the Distrito Federal and known as the “DF” (pronounced “deh-eh-feh”), the capital changed its official name to “Ciudad de México” in 2016 as part of a rebranding effort, giving rise to the unpronounceable “CDMX.”

What are the best things to do in Mexico City?

museum anthropology women culture mural

The Museum of Anthropology is absolutely fantastic. Here, ‘Las Razas y La Cultura’ by Jorge González Camarena, is one of many amazing murals. The huge museum captures the spectrum of Mexico’s indigenous peoples.

At least one day should be spent roaming the streets of Roma and Condesa, beloved by both hipsters and expats. Streetside cafés, restaurants, and bars abound, as well as galleries and parks.

Polanco can also be explored on foot; visitors can spend half a day wandering down chic Avenida Masaryk and the area close to Lincoln Park after visiting one or two of the many museums along Avenida Reforma. Some of our favorites include the Anthropology Museum and the Museum of Modern Art. The Chapultepec Castle – the entrance is also along Avenida Reforma – offers incredible views of the city from its terrace and houses the city’s National Museum of History. Those wanting to visit Frida Kahlo’s iconic Casa Azul should book tickets online when planning their visit, as the site’s popularity has grown exponentially over the years.

To explore the city center, visitors should start at Bellas Artes (the opera building) and make their way to the Zócalo, the main square, where they can see the Cathedral and the National Palace up close.

Teotihuacán, some of the country’s most impressive pre-Hispanic ruins, can be found an hour away from the city. It’s difficult to get there by public transport but Ubers offer a convenient mode of transportation. Due to the crowds, it’s best to get there early and climb the pyramids well before noon.

Markets are colorful entryways into Mexico’s daily life and rich culture. Many operators offer tours for foodies to sample ingredients and traditional bites that they probably wouldn’t be able to find on their own. Shopping lovers would do well to head to the south of the city on a Saturday, as the impressive Bazaar del Sábado (Saturday market) sets up shop in the San Angel neighborhood. La Ciudadela market is another good choice to pick up handicrafts to take back home. And nothing like a night of Lucha Libre (freestyle wrestling) to get the blood pumping and the spirits high, it’s an activity that can be enjoyed by the whole family.

How many days should I spend in Mexico City?

There is so much to see in Mexico City that travelers should aim to spend 5 days to a week visiting it, especially if planning on going to sights on the outskirts of town like the Teotihuacán pyramids. The more days visitors spend in town, the more restaurants they’ll be able to visit and the more dishes they’ll be able to sample. This is a place with many layers that visitors can peel on several visits.

What currency is used in Mexico City?

The currency in Mexico is the Mexican peso, which currently fluctuates between 19-22 pesos to the US dollar. Credit cards are widely accepted throughout the Mexican capital, except in taxis and smaller shops. Visitors might also want to carry cash for small purchases from food stands and street vendors. The currency exchange booths at the airport offer favorable rates, so it’s recommended to exchange dollars upon landing. (Compare between a few of them before making the exchange, though, as the rates do vary.) ATMs can be found everywhere in the city, so it’s easy to take out money that way.

Should I tip in Mexico City?

Mexico City does have a tipping culture, but not as big as the one in the US. It’s not customary to tip taxi drivers, for example, so it’s best to agree on a rate from the start. In restaurants, a 10% tip used to be enough, but locals are more prone to tip 15% these days, especially at higher-end or more established places. Staff at beauty salons usually expect a 10% tip. Visitors who rent a car to go on day trips near the city should add a 10 peso tip at gas stations (there is staff to pump gas, self-service doesn’t exist) and to valet parking staff at restaurants. Grocery baggers at supermarkets don’t receive a living wage, so a 10 peso coin will also be appreciated.

Mexico City Chapultepec Castle

Chapultepec Castle, now a fascinating museum, surrounded by a large forested park in the center city.

Is Mexico City expensive?

Mexico’s capital is as expensive as visitors want it to be: it can be experienced on any budget. Americans will find it very affordable compared to the States. For foodies, Mexico City will present many opportunities to experience fine dining for a fraction of what they’d pay at comparable restaurants in the US, Australia, and Western Europe. Accommodation options range from high-end hotels like the Four Seasons and St. Regis along the famous Paseo de la Reforma avenue all the way to modest hostels downtown. Airbnb offers the chance to stay at apartments in trendy neighborhoods like Roma, Condesa, and Polanco at reasonable prices.

Is Mexico City safe?

As in every big city, visitors need to stay alert of their surroundings while walking around in Mexico City or sitting outdoors at streetside restaurants. Men would do well wearing their wallets in their front pockets and it’s preferable for women to opt for crossbody bags that they can keep close to their bodies (even while sitting at outdoor restaurants —Mexican women will sit with their purses on their laps, they’ll never hang them on the back of the chair). Walking around at night is fine in more central neighborhoods like Roma and Condesa, but it’s better for women to avoid doing so by themselves. Going into sketchy neighborhoods should be avoided, even during the day. If using public transport, watch out for pickpockets.

What should I eat in Mexico City?

Hands down the number one thing visitors should try in Mexico City are tacos al pastor. They can be found everywhere from holes in the wall and street stalls to more established taquerías. El Califa is a delicious and reliable option with several convenient locations, including Roma and Condesa. Mole is another unmissable dish for any trip to Mexico and can be ordered at more established restaurants like Azul Histórico, El Cardenal, and Pujol. Pujol is also a good choice for those who want to experience Mexican fine dining. Dulce Patria and Quintonil should also be high on any foodie’s list. For a more casual outing, La Casa de Toño offers Mexican staples like deep-fried quesadillas filled with mushrooms and zucchini flowers, to pozole, a traditional soup made with hominy and meat that is served as a main dish.

Read More

Mérida Travel Guide

Mexico › Mérida
Updated: March 1, 2022

See Also

folkloric dancers

Folk dancers performing the maypole dance during a festival.

Frequently Asked Questions about Mérida

Where is Mérida?

Mérida is the capital of the state of Yucatan and it’s located in the South East of Mexico. It’s 8 meters above sea level and, together with the municipalities of Conkal, Kanasín, Ucú, and Umán, it forms the so-called metropolitan area.

How big is Mérida?

The municipality of Mérida covers an area of almost 535 miles (860 square kilometers). As is the case for practically the entire state of Yucatan, the territory is virtually flat, with only a slight slope towards the Gulf of Mexico. There are almost a million people living in Mérida’s metropolitan area.

What is the history of Mérida?

The city was founded in 1542 on the remains of T’Hó, a Mayan city that was practically uninhabited by that time. Some of the Spanish conquerors came from the region of Extremadura and decided to name it Mérida in honor of a city back home. The main reason for this was that the Mayan ruins reminded them of the Roman ruins found in the European Mérida.

How do I get to Mérida?

The Manuel Crescencio Rejón International Airport is located about 4 miles (7 kilometers) from the city, and it connects Mérida with 14 domestic and four international destinations. In addition, it’s possible to arrive by bus from Cancun. The journey lasts around four hours.

parade in front of municipal palace

A nighttime parade in front of the municipal palace during a festival.

When is the best time to go to Mérida?

The best months to travel to Mérida, and in general to the entire Yucatan Peninsula, are December, January, and February. The temperature is slightly lower than the rest of the year, averaging 79ºF (26ºC). During this time, rain is scarce so you can walk around the city with ease.

What neighborhoods should I visit in Mérida?

Known as “the white city” (“La Blanca Mérida”) given the predominantly white buildings erect at its founding, Mérida’s architecture reflects several different periods of its history. The historic center is a perfect example of beautiful colonial architecture, while the iconic Paseo de Montejo is lined with mansions —some of them derelict, others turned into banks, restaurants, and boutique hotels— from its wealthy henequen industry days. Mérida’s most traditional neighborhoods are definitely worth a visit. El barrio de Santiago has a park that comes alive every afternoon, el barrio de Santa Ana is known for its markets and culinary exhibitions, and el barrio de Mejorada houses several museums.

Where should I stay in Mérida?

Deciding where to stay in Mérida is quite simple since there are accommodation options for all budgets. Undoubtedly, the two best areas for visitors are the historic center, with its colonial design and old town, and the area surrounding Paseo de Montejo, an avenue inspired by French boulevards where beautiful buildings, cafes, restaurants, boutiques, and bars abound.

horse carriage

Horsedrawn carriage and street vendors on the main plaza downtown.

How do I get around in Mérida?

Mérida is a very well organized city. The streets are numbered with pairs going from north to south and odd numbers from east to west. To visit the center, a good option is to walk or rent a bicycle. Public transport is safe and connects practically the entire city. Digital apps such as DiDi and Cabify also operate in the city.

What are the best things to do in Mérida?

In the city, walking along Paseo de Montejo and admiring its beautiful buildings is practically mandatory, as is a visit to the Cathedral of San Ildefonso, the oldest in the country. Hopping on a Turibus to tour the city is a great way to see the main attractions. Mérida’s food scene is definitely something to write home about and visitors can’t leave without trying the marquesitas, a kind of ice cream cone filled with cheese. In the surrounding areas, it’s worth visiting Celestún and its flamingos, Izamal and its Mayan ruins, and the imposing Chichen Itzá.

How many days should I spend in Mérida?

Mérida is not a very big city, so it takes two or three days to visit its main attractions. However, it’s in a part of the country where visitors can admire gems like Chichen Itzá, one of the seven wonders of the modern world, and a myriad of sinkholes (cenotes). For this reason, those wanting to use it as a base to visit the surrounding areas would do well to stay up to a week.

homeland monument

The Homeland Monument.

What currency is used in Mérida?

In Merida, as in the rest of Mexico, the currency is the Mexican peso. In 2020 the average exchange rate has been $20.20 pesos per US dollar. There are foreign currency exchange agencies in the airport but the best rate is always offered by the bank, so it’s advisable to pay with a credit card whenever possible and withdraw cash from an ATM.

Should I tip in Mérida?

Tipping is part of the hospitality culture throughout Mexico. In bars and restaurants, it’s common to leave between 10% and 15% of the total bill. It’s also normal to tip tour guides and customer service personnel in hotels.

museum interior courtyard

An interior courtyard of The Museo Fernando García Ponce-Macay, which features contemporary art work of Mexican and regional Yucatan artists.

Is Mérida expensive?

For an American or European tourist, visiting Mexico is not expensive since the exchange rate is favorable. Of course, visitors can make their trip as expensive or as cheap as they wish. The truth is that it is a much cheaper city than others in the country, such as Mexico City or Monterrey.

Is Mérida safe?

In 2019, CEOWORLD magazine rated Mérida as the second safest city in the Americas, only surpassed by Quebec. It’s undoubtedly pretty safe and visitors and locals alike can walk around everywhere in the city with confidence. However, as in any medium-sized city, it’s advisable not to go out with expensive jewelry or large amounts of cash.

Cochinita Pibil is pit-roasted pork with citrus flavors, a traditional dish of the Yucatan Peninsula.

What should I eat in Mérida?

Yucatecan cuisine is famous throughout the country and it has flavors that make it distinct from those of other Mexican regions. Typical dishes such as cochinita pibil, panuchos, papadzules, relleno negro (black stuffing) or lime soup are among the delicacies that any visitor to the city must try. There are restaurants for all budgets. Some of the most iconic ones are La Tradición and La Chaya Maya. Foodies who love fine dining should visit K’u’uk and the restaurant at Rosas & Xocolate, one of the city’s prettiest boutique hotels.

Read More

Mazatlán Travel Guide

Mexico › Mazatlán
Updated: March 1, 2022

See Also

Mazatlán is one of Mexico’s most atmospheric resorts, a laid-back, historic city on the western, Pacific coast, and one of our favorite places to go for good seafood, sun and sand.

downtown with church and cruise ship

Downtown old Mazatlan with the cathedral and a cruise ship in the distance.

Frequently Asked Questions about Mazatlán

Where is Mazatlán?

Mazatlán is a city in Mexico, on the western, Pacific coast of the country in the state of Sinaloa. Mazatlán lies about 1030 km northwest of Mexico City, 220 km south of state capital Culiacán, and 440 km north of Puerto Vallarta. Non-stop flights to Mazatlán take 2 hours 40 minutes from Los Angeles, 2 hours 15 minutes from Tijuana, 1 hour 40 minutes from Mexico City and 1 hour 25 minutes from Monterrey.

How big is Mazatlán?

Mazatlán has a greater metro population of almost 490,000. The main city and busiest resort area stretches some 30km north to south along the Pacific coast. Pristine beaches and smaller resorts fan out either side of the central “Zona Dorada” (“Golden Zone”), the traditional hub for accommodation and tourist activities.

What is the history of Mazatlán?

Mazatlán claims an official foundation date of 1531, when the Spanish took control of the area, but nothing much happened here well into the 19th century. Initially little more than a base for smugglers and pirates, Mazatlán gained respectability when a Mexican customs office opened in 1828, and the city finally boomed as a mining port – author Herman Melville visited Mazatlán as a sailor in 1844. In the late 19th century, the city also attracted manufacturing and a large immigrant population – Germans opened the famous Cerveceria del Pacífico brewery in 1900. It wasn’t until the end of World War II that Mazatlán started to attract tourists, initially American sport fishermen (today it still operates the largest canneries and shrimp fisheries in the country). Writer Jack Kerouac passed through in 1952, writing about his visit in Lonesome Traveler. Mass tourism really took off in the 1970s with the development of the “Zona Dorada”, and in the last decade or so the city’s old town or “centro histórico” has been given an attractive facelift.

How do I get to Mazatlán?

Mazatlán is connected to the US and Canada by numerous non-stop flights, though many of these area seasonal; most flights will otherwise route through Los Angeles or Dallas/Fort Worth. Non-stop domestic flights link Mazatlán with Monterrey, Tijuana, Mexico City, and several smaller cities. There are no direct flights from Europe – most visitors travel through the US or Mexico City.

Within Mexico, first-class long-distance buses are an economical and comfortable alternative to flying – buses to Guadalajara (6–7 hours), Mexico City (14–15 hours), and Puerto Vallarta (7 hours 30 minutes) operate frequently (24 hours).

stairs down to ocean

Stairs down to a lookout point along the waterfront.

What are the options for airport transportation in Mazatlán?

Mazatlán’s International Airport lies some 20km south of the city center. Arrival can be quite chaotic – ignore the timeshare sales staff upon exiting and their offers of rides into the city. Look instead for the official “Taxi” desk and pay for transportation there – or arrange rides in advance with companies like Mazatlan Tours.

The cheapest transportation is provided by vans (or “colectivos”) that offer fixed rates to the old town and Zona Dorada – usually 125 pesos. This is a great deal, but note that if the van is full and your hotel happens to be the last stop, the trip can take well over 2 hours (it only takes 30 minutes by taxi).

Like most airports in Mexico, private taxis operate a monopoly here and rates are relatively expensive, ranging from US$25–60, depending on where the hotel is. The price will be fixed in advance at the Taxi Desk at the airport – there are no meters inside the taxis. The desk will accept US or Canadian dollars in addition to Mexican pesos, but payment is cash only. All the major car rental companies have desks at the airport.

Can I use Uber in Mazatlán?

Uber is available in Mazatlán (assuming phones have roaming, and the app works), and can offer convenience and much cheaper rates over traditional taxis. Most short trips in town range 30 to 45 pesos, with journeys between the Old Town and Zona Dorada around 65 pesos, and rides out to Cerritos around 100 pesos.

However, Uber drivers are legally forbidden to provide airport pick-ups. The local airport taxi drivers (as is typical in Mexico) are very territorial – even though Uber drivers are allowed to drop-off at the airport, most drivers will refuse for fear of reprisals. Within the city, taking Uber is usually fine.

Various other ride-sharing apps operate in Mazatlán, with Chinese-owned DiDi offering slightly cheaper rates, and Estonia-based Bolt another alternative, but we’d recommend sticking with Uber for first-time visitors.

old historical buildings

Colorful old city streets in the historic city center.

Can I drive to Mazatlán?

We would urge caution in driving to Mazatlán. Driving down from the US border is relatively straightforward – the main highways are in good condition all the way. However, beyond the tourist centers, the states of Sinaloa and Sonora have a reputation for drug violence that makes driving some areas a potentially dangerous proposition – driving at night should be absolutely avoided. The drive from Mazatlán to Nogales on the border with Arizona on Hwy-15 is around 1170 km (727 miles) and 14 hours non-stop. Foreign vehicles also require a Mexican “Temporary Importation of Vehicle Permit”, arranged at the border or before departing.

Do I need a car in Mazatlán?

Public transport is incredibly prolific and cheap in Mazatlán making a car unnecessary (see below).

The Old Town is best explored on foot, and it’s easy to reach all the main beaches by bus or taxi.

How do I get around Mazatlán without a vehicle?

There are so many options to getting around Mazatlán without a car! Public transport is fun and cheap in Mazatlán. First-time visitors should try the pulmonías (a bit like souped-up golf carts but usually modified VW Beetles, blaring Mexican music). Fares depend somewhat on negotiation skills – rides between the Zona Dorada and Old Town usually cost around 150 pesos. Larger red pick-up trucks known as aurigas tend to be cheaper than this, and ideal for big groups – they take 8–10 people at a time – but again, negotiate the rate in advance.

Regular taxis (usually red or green) do not have meters but operate on a (very) rough fixed-rate system, though always confirm the price before getting in. Most short trips in town range 40 to 50 pesos, with journeys between the Old Town and Zona Dorada around 70–80 pesos (and 20 percent more at night). Uber tends to be a bit cheaper (see above).

City buses are a convenient and cheap alternative: the bus identified as “Sabalo-Centro” runs back and forth from the Marina in the north all the way down the seafront through the Zona Dorada and into the Old Town. The bus is air-conditioned and costs just 11 pesos.

waterfront yacht club

Sailboats and yachts in a marina along the waterfront.

When is the best time to go to Mazatlán?

Mazatlán is at its best between November and May when it’s sunny and very dry. In the summer (July to September) it can be very humid and very hot – it can also rain a lot, though the water is at its warmest for swimming and snorkeling at this time. October and November is a great time to visit – the rainy season is over, but the busy winter season has yet to pick up, so hotels tend to be cheaper.

Where should I stay in Mazatlán?

Most tourists in Mazatlán stay in the Zona Dorada, the “Golden Zone” fronting the main beaches – this is where the big resort hotels are, as well as a range of budget options. Alternatively, the restored Old Town (or centro histórico) has a lot more character – staying here, in boutique hotels or Airbnb apartments, means a longer journey to the beach but access to a lot more of Mazatlán’s cultural offerings – live music, theater, museums, bars, restaurants, and local markets. Larger and more isolated resorts lie to the north along Playa Cerritos and Playa Brujas in what is known as “Nuevo Mazatlán”.

What are the best beaches in Mazatlán?

Our favorite beaches in Mazatlán include the small beach on the Isla de la Venados (Deer Island), 2 km off the coast – all the tour operators in the Zona Dorada offer boat trips – and the Isla de la Piedra (actually a long peninsula), which boasts a long, sandy beach ideal for swimming, with several no-frills Mexican beach bars and restaurants. To get there, take a bus or taxi to the “Embarcadero” at the southern end of the Old Town, then catch a motorboat across the channel.

The primary tourist beaches that line the Zona Dorada – known as Playa Gaviotas and Playa Sábalo further north – are perfectly fine, often busy but clean and convenient for hotels and amenities. Further north the beaches are wilder and emptier; aim for Playa Cerritos or Playa Bruja (both accessible by bus) for a quieter experience.

waterfront promenade at night

Waterfront promenade just after sunset.

Where to change money in Mazatlán?

The Mexican peso is the official currency in Mazatlán (often prefixed with a “$” sign), and though some hotels, restaurants, and vendors may accept US or Canadian dollars, most local businesses only deal in pesos. Try to use ATMs to withdraw peso cash in Mazatlán if possible (check with the bank before leaving to confirm it’s possible to use a debit card and how much they will charge – using credit cards can incur interest and foreign transaction fees). Credit cards are widely accepted, but cash is needed for buses, most taxis, and small purchases.

What are the best things to do in Mazatlán?

The best things to do in Mazatlán are connected with the beaches; swimming, surfing, sunbathing, and various watersports. Other pleasures include dining, drinking, and shopping, particularly in the resurgent Old Town. It’s worth strolling the historic streets around the Plaza Machado, taking in the 19th-century Teatro Ángela Peralta, the small but absorbing Museo Arqueológico (archeological museum), and Museo de Arte (art museum), with its displays of modern Mexican paintings and sculpture. The colorful stalls of the grand old city market, Mercado Pino Suárez, are also worth perusing.

Other highlights include viewing the world’s largest mosaic mural at the Mazatlán International Center; hiking up to the lighthouse (“El Faro de Crestón”) at the far southern edge of the city; enjoying a cocktail at historic Bar Belmar, overlooking Playa Olas Altas; and watching the cliff divers at “the Mirador”, on the seafront. For a bit more excitement tackle the multiple ziplines at Huana Coa Canopy Adventure, just outside the city (tours that include transport are sold all over town and in hotels). Mazatlán is also a great place to learn to surf – contact Jah Surf School.

What are the restaurants in Mazatlán like?

The restaurants in Mazatlán are pretty good, a mix of classic Mexican and international. In the Old Town, Casa Etnika sells handicrafts as well as Oaxacan coffee and snacks, while Topolo and El Aljibe de San Pedro are our go-to’s for high-quality Mexican cuisine. Asian-fusion specialist Water’s Edge Bistro is our overall favorite restaurant for a big night out. In the Zona Dorada we recommend Casa Loma for a romantic dinner, and Twisted Mama’s for international dishes, cocktails and nightlife.

Is Mazatlán expensive?

Everything is relative of course, but Mazatlán is one of Mexico’s more affordable resorts. Hotels tend to be reasonably priced, public transport is very cheap, and meals and activities won’t cost much – almost everything is priced in pesos, not US dollars.

Is Mazatlán safe?

Yes. Despite the state of Sinaloa being one of Mexico’s drug cartel hotspots, Mazatlán itself is safe for tourists to visit. The Zona Dorada, Old Town, and Malecón (seafront) are well-policed, even at night. We would advise not to travel outside the city alone (organized tours are OK), and to take the usual precautions.

Read More

Cabo Travel Guide

Mexico › Los Cabos
Updated: March 1, 2022

Los Cabos Articles

Los Cabos – or just “Cabo” – is a popular Mexican resort area at the tip of Baja California, and one of our favorite places to go in Mexico for sea and sun. With a coastline that takes in the Pacific Ocean and Sea of Cortez, Cabo is best known for its fine beaches, luxury hotels, beautiful desert scenery, surfing, and vibrant beach, dining, and nightclub scene.

cabo aerial view

Aerial view of Medano Beach in Cabo San Lucas.

Frequently Asked Questions about Los Cabos

Where is Los Cabos?

Los Cabos is a municipality at the southern tip of the Mexican state of Baja California Sur. Bordering the Pacific Ocean to the west, and Sea of Cortez (or Gulf of California) to the east, it comprises the two resort towns of Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo, separated by the 32 km “Corridor” of resorts and posh condos.

Cabo San Lucas lies about 160 km south of La Paz, and 1625 km south of Tijuana and the US border. Non-stop flights to Los Cabos International Airport take just over 3 hours from San Francisco, 2 hours 35 minutes from Houston, 2 hours 15 minutes from Los Angeles, just over 2 hours from Mexico City and Tijuana, and 1.5 hours from Guadalajara.

How big is Los Cabos?

Los Cabos has a greater metro population of almost 288,000. Cabo San Lucas itself has a population of around 81,000, while San José del Cabo has around 93,000 inhabitants.

What is the history of Los Cabos?

Originally the home of the indigenous Pericú people, the first official Spanish attempt to colonize Los Cabos began in 1730. In that year San José del Cabo was founded as a Catholic mission by Jesuits, on the site of a Pericú village – it was destroyed in the Pericú Revolt four years later, and over the next hundred years, the location of the mission and settlement was re-located several times. Meantime, diseases virtually wiped out the Pericú.

In the 19th century, San José developed into a small port and agricultural center, while Cabo San Lucas remained a tiny village frequented by pirates and smugglers. In the 1940s writer, John Steinbeck sailed along the Baja coast, recording his journey in The Log from the Sea of Cortez – he called Cabo San Lucas a “sad little town”. There was a tuna cannery here and little else, and the road connecting the two settlements wasn’t finished until 1970. In the 1980s everything changed when the Mexican government began developing the region as a major international resort and cruise destination – today millions of North Americans vacation here annually.

How do I get to Los Cabos?

Los Cabos International Airport is connected to the US and Canada by numerous non-stop flights; flights take anywhere from 2 hours 15 minutes to 8 hours, depending on the destination. Most domestic flights link Cabo with Mexico City.

Because of its relatively remote location, getting here overland can be very time-consuming. First-class long-distance buses run down the Baja peninsula from Tijuana (at least 28 hours to Cabo San Lucas) via La Paz (2 hours 30 minutes), though these can be infrequent.

Santa Maria beach Cabo

Beautiful Santa Maria Beach is a sheltered beach with calm swimming and snorkeling areas.

What are the options for Cabo airport transportation?

Los Cabos International Airport lies 19km north of downtown San José del Cabo and a further 32km from Cabo San Lucas. All the major car rental companies have desks here; otherwise, reserve a taxi or shared minibus in advance with Transportistas Josefinos, Cabo Transfers, or Los Cabos Airport Shuttle. Airport taxis are available on arrival, but are very expensive and will try and charge US dollars – local buses are a cheaper alternative, but not recommended with luggage.

Can I use Uber in Los Cabos?

Using Uber in Los Cabos is complicated. Uber cars are available (assuming phones have roaming, and the app works), but they are technically operating illegally, without government approval (as of August 2020). It’s definitely not possible to catch an Uber at the airport. Local taxi cartels have aggressively fought to keep Uber out of Los Cabos – until the situation is stabilized, it’s best to make other arrangements.

Can I drive to Los Cabos?

It’s possible to drive to Los Cabos. Driving down from the US border is relatively straightforward, and plenty of Americans and Canadians take their own vehicles – the main highway is good, virtually empty outside the towns, and is fairly safe (though driving at night should be avoided). There are many Mexican army checkpoints along the way, but tourists are usually waved through without problems.

It’s important to fill up whenever a gas station is seen and plan accordingly. The drive is over 1,625 km (1,010 miles) and takes around 24 hours non-stop – most folks break the journey into two or three days. Another plus: foreign vehicles do not need a Mexican “Temporary Importation of Vehicle Permit”, as long as they stay on the Baja peninsula.

If renting a vehicle, it’s much easier to do this once across the Mexican border, as taking US rental vehicles into Mexico comes with all sorts of restrictions.

Do I need to rent a car in Los Cabos?

It is not necessary to rent a car in Los Cabos. Though some beaches are hard to access without a vehicle, public buses do run up and down the coastal highway. To explore the region, renting a car, for at least some of the stay, can provide more flexibility. Car rental is relatively straightforward and cheap at the airport and in either of the resort towns – beyond the congested roads of the resorts, highways are generally empty and easy to navigate.

lands end lovers beach

The gorgeous “Land’s End” Beach at the southern tip of Baja is a favorite spot for visitors.

How do I get around Los Cabos without a vehicle?

Taxis or local buses are the easiest ways to get around Los Cabos without a car. Local buses run up and down the “Corridor” between Cabo and San José every 10 to 20 minutes for a handful of pesos – just flag them down. They will stop on the highway near most of the beaches on route if asked. Taxis are obviously more convenient and always available at ranks in both towns, but are very expensive by Mexican standards – they will try to charge US dollars, though paying in pesos is always cheaper because of inflated exchange rates. Always check the latest rates before getting in – there are no meters. Trips along the Corridor will be at least US$40 and between Cabo San Lucas and San José at least US$60.

When is the best time to go to Los Cabos?

The beaches of Los Cabos are at their best from November through May when there’s great weather (and whale-watching Jan–Feb). Much of the peninsula shuts down during the broiling hot summers, though Los Cabos tends to be an all-year destination. Skip Christmas, Easter, and Spring Break (Feb/March), to avoid the crowds.

Where should I stay in Los Cabos?

The coast of Los Cabos can be broadly divided into three sections. Cabo San Lucas itself is where the main marina, nightlife, and entertainment is focused and has the widest range of accommodation and food options. The beaches tend to be the busiest, though even here it’s possible to find empty sections of sand, especially on the Pacific side of town.

San José del Cabo is primarily a historic enclave, slightly inland, known for its art galleries, crafty stores, and charming restaurants – staying here in a boutique hotel is a much more tranquil experience than in Cabo, though it’s a few kilometers from the nearest beach. This is dubbed San José’s “Zona Hotelera”. The wide beach here is lined with family-friendly resorts, though the nightlife is far tamer than in Cabo San Lucas.

In between the two towns, the “Corridor” features a series of quiet coves and sandy beaches, backed by mostly high-end luxury resorts. The beaches, however, are all open to the public. Staying here means relying primarily on in-resort dining and entertainment options, or requires renting a car to visit the two main towns.

lovers beach sand

Lover’s Beach at Land’s End.

What are the best beaches in Los Cabos?

Our favorites beaches in Los Cabos include family-friendly Playa el Chileno (15km northeast of Cabo San Lucas), which has well-maintained restrooms, and a shop that rents watersports equipment. It’s excellent for swimming, diving, and snorkeling. Playa del Amor (Lovers’ Beach) in Cabo San Lucas is incredibly picturesque, accessible only by boat from Cabo Marina or Playa El Médano. Bahía Santa María, (12km northeast of Cabo San Lucas) is an enchanting horseshoe cove that offers snorkeling over reefs (rays and turtles hang out here), while Playa Acapulquito (5km south of San José del Cabo) is a tiny but beautiful sandy beach that’s ideal for beginner surfers (just around the headland lies the celebrated Zippers and La Roca surf breaks). Finally, Playa El Médano is Cabo’s premier swimming and party beach – the main strip is heaving with beach bars, vendors, jet skis, and sunbathers.

Where to change money in Los Cabos?

Though the Mexican peso is the official currency in Los Cabos, US dollars are accepted almost everywhere. However, change will often be given in pesos, and US dollar prices invariably work out to be higher than peso prices because of inflated exchange rates. Try to use ATMs to withdraw peso cash in Los Cabos if possible (check with the bank before leaving to confirm a debit card can be used and how much they will charge – using credit cards can incur interest or fees). Credit cards are widely accepted everywhere, but cash is needed for buses, most taxis, and small purchases.

humpback whale tail

See humpback whales and other amazing marine mammals up close on a whale watching tour.

What are the best things to do in Los Cabos?

The best things to do in Los Cabos are connected with the water; swimming, surfing, relaxing on the beaches, and various watersports. Other pleasures include dining, drinking, and shopping – particularly the growing number of art galleries – in the centers of Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo.

In Cabo San Lucas, Cabo Adventures offers a range of packages involving interactions with dolphins, while numerous operators in the marina offer boat trips out to “El Arco”, the huge rock arch at the very end of the Baja peninsular. Andromeda Divers runs highly recommended scuba diving trips. For on-land excursions by camel and zip-lining, Cabo Adventures is also a solid choice. Spine-tingling aerial tours by ultralight (powered hang-glider) are organized through Cabo Sky Tours.

All sorts of boat trips operate from Cabo marina, from faux pirate ships and family-friendly catamarans, to huge party boats.

In San José del Cabo it’s worth visiting the old church, La Misión de San José del Cabo Añuití, built in 1932 on the site of the original Jesuit mission, or attending the Art Walk (usually every Thursday 5–9 pm, November to June only), when all the local art galleries open late.

It’s also worth taking a day-trip to the pretty colonial town of Todos Santos, or the provincial capital of La Paz.

What are the restaurants like in Los Cabos?

The restaurants of Los Cabos are incredibly varied. In Cabo, we love Bar Esquina located at Bahia Hotel and Beach House, with its Moorish-inspired dining room and fusion of Mexican and Mediterranean flavors, Mama’s Royal Café for its excellent breakfasts, and legendary taco joint Taquería El Paisa (Lazaro Vicario, at Alikan).

In San José del Cabo our favorites include Baja Brewing, the local microbrewery, and chef Loïc Tenoux’s French-influenced Mexican cuisine at Mi Cocina.

Is Los Cabos expensive?

Los Cabos is known for its luxury hotels, exclusive beach clubs, designer shops, and pricey bars and restaurants, and it can be a challenge to visit on a modest budget. To save money, avoid the beachfront resorts and stay in cheaper hotels in San José del Cabo (budget Airbnb deals are also a viable option here). Take local buses to get around (skip taxis), and seek out the cheaper Mexican restaurants and taquerías for meals – international restaurants are always more expensive.

Is Los Cabos safe?

Yes. Los Cabos has generally avoided the drug violence that has affected other parts of Mexico. Take the usual precautions, especially at night, and keep valuables in room safes. Theft of personal items from beaches does happen – never leave anything of value unattended, even on seemingly empty stretches of sand.

Read More