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The beach in downtown Playa del Carmen. The ferry to Cozumel (yellow boats in background) and scuba day trips (white boats) are nearby.
Staying in Playa del Carmen – The Basics
- In conversation, Playa del Carmen usually gets shortened to “Playa,” which translates to “beach” but refers to the entire city and the surrounding resort areas. While it was once a small fishing village, it is now the heartbeat of the Riviera Maya. The city is located in the state of Quintana Roo on the Yucatan Peninsula. The Tren Maya is now fully operational, making it much easier to reach nearby destinations like Valladolid, Merida, and the ruins at Chichen Itza via the Playa del Carmen station located west of the highway.
- Playa del Carmen is roughly divided into several key areas for visitors. Downtown is the most popular, consisting of El Centro and the famous Quinta Avenida (5th Avenue), a several-mile-long pedestrian street lined with shops and restaurants. Playacar is a gated residential and resort area just south of the pier, great for families. North Playa del Carmen (near Calle 38 and CTM) is quieter, more local, and has a much better beach than downtown. Mayakoba is a high-end luxury complex north of the city set within mangroves. The North and South Riviera Maya encompass the massive all-inclusive resorts and cenotes spread along the coast toward Cancun and Tulum.
- I recommend focusing your time around Quinta Avenida for the best energy, but keep in mind that the beaches in the very center of town can suffer from erosion and crowds. For the best sand and water, head north of Calle 38 or south into the Playacar phase one area. Also, be aware of sargassum (seaweed) which typically impacts the coast from April through August; many high-end resorts now use barriers to keep their specific beachfronts clear.

- The water is generally calmest from Mayakoba down to Akumal because Cozumel sits directly offshore and acts as a natural breakwater. This makes Playa a better choice for swimming than the rougher Atlantic-facing beaches of Cancun. If you want crystal clear water for snorkeling, I suggest taking the 45-minute ferry from the downtown pier over to Cozumel for a day trip.
- Pay in pesos. While USD is accepted almost everywhere, the exchange rate offered by shops and restaurants is usually terrible. You will save 10 to 15 percent on your entire trip just by using local currency. Use bank-affiliated ATMs (like Santander or BBVA) rather than the “no-name” machines on the street to avoid high fees and skimming.
- Getting to Playa from Cancun Airport (CUN) is straightforward. I do not recommend renting a car if you are staying downtown as parking is difficult and the area is very walkable. Instead, take the ADO bus or pre-book a shuttle. I recommend Private Transportation Riviera Maya for families. A private van for four people costs about 130 USD round-trip and takes 50 minutes. The ADO bus is the budget choice; tickets are now roughly 270 pesos (15 USD) per person. Buses leave the airport every 20 to 30 minutes. Buy your tickets at the official ADO stand after exiting customs; do not buy them online in advance because your flight might be delayed.
- Within the city, walking is your best bet. Quinta Avenida is entirely pedestrian-only. For longer trips, taxis are plentiful but do not have meters. Always confirm the price in pesos before you get in the car. Drivers carry a rate card based on zones, but prices are often higher if you hail a cab from a “sitio” (official stand) or a hotel entrance. Flagging a cab on a side street a block or two away from the main tourist drag is usually cheaper. Note that Uber does not operate in Playa del Carmen due to local regulations.
Best Places to Stay in Playa del Carmen

The fantastic Hotel Xcaret in Playa del Carmen.
- Best Hotels in Playa del Carmen
Hotel Esencia (best luxury hotel) • El Dorado Maroma (best adults-only hotel) • Hotel Xcaret (best all-inclusive resort).- Best Hotels for Families in Playa del Carmen
Hotel Xcaret • Grand Velas Riviera Maya • Hard Rock Hotel Riviera Maya- Best Hotels for Couples in Playa del Carmen
El Dorado Maroma • Hotel Esencia- Best Cheap Hotels in Playa del Carmen
Hotel Lunata • Hotel CieloBest Areas to Stay in Playa del Carmen?

Downtown Playa del Carmen is packed with restaurants, shops, and bars.
- Playa del Carmen is a bustling beach city on Mexico’s Caribbean coast in the Yucatan Peninsula. The town is located in the state of Quintana Roo in the heart of the Riviera Maya, roughly 45 minutes from both Cancun and Tulum and directly across the water from Cozumel. Playa is tropical and warm year-round. While it has grown significantly, it remains one of the safer and more navigable resort destinations in Mexico. With the Tren Maya now fully operational, it serves as a major hub for exploring the rest of the peninsula.
- The Best Places for First-Timers to Playa del Carmen are Downtown or North Playa. These areas provide the easiest access to the beach, shopping, and the ferry terminal. If you have an early morning flight from Cancun Airport, staying in the North Riviera Maya (near Puerto Morelos) saves you significant travel time. For those catching an early ferry to Cozumel, I recommend staying in Downtown near Parque Fundadores to be within walking distance of the pier.
- Best Place for Great Beaches: The beaches here are famous for their white, powdery sand. Because the island of Cozumel sits offshore, the water in Playa is much calmer than the open-ocean beaches in Cancun. I find the best stretches of sand are in Mayakoba and North Playa (specifically around Calle 38 and CTM). Downtown beaches are convenient but can be narrow and quite crowded with beach clubs and boat traffic. If you visit between April and August, be mindful of sargassum (seaweed); North Playa and the private resorts in Mayakoba usually do the best job of clearing it.
- Best Places for Families: For a stress-free family vacation, I recommend the gated luxury of Mayakoba or the large resorts in the South Riviera Maya near Akumal. These areas offer calm, shallow water perfect for young children and extensive kids’ clubs. North Riviera Maya is excellent for families with teenagers who want more active water sports and larger pool complexes, though the waves there can be slightly stronger.
- Best Places for Living Like a Local: To find the “real” Playa, head west of 10th Avenue. The area around 30th Avenue is where you will find the best authentic food at a fraction of the prices on the tourist strip. I recommend visiting the street food stalls for cochinita pibil or heading to Punta Esmeralda, a beach at the north end of town with a small freshwater cenote where local families gather to swim and picnic.
- Best Places for Dining and Nightlife: Downtown is the undisputed center of the action, with the highest concentration of bars and clubs located on Calle 12. If you want great food without the thumping bass of the nightclubs, North Playa is the better choice. I consider Calle 38 in North Playa to be the most beautiful street in the city, lined with trees and some of the area’s most creative and high-quality restaurants.
- Best Places for Shopping: Quinta Avenida (5th Avenue) is the primary shopping artery, running for several kilometers through town. The southern section near the Playacar entrance features the Paseo del Carmen outdoor mall, while the central area near Calle 12 is packed with international brands and souvenir shops. For a more upscale experience, the Quinta Alegria mall at the corner of Calle 16 is the main landmark. Most shops are open late, usually until 10:00 or 11:00 PM.
- Best Places for Short Trips: If you only have a few days, stay in Downtown or Mayakoba. Downtown’s walkability ensures you don’t waste time in traffic, and the proximity to the ferry makes a Cozumel day trip effortless. The Tren Maya station on the outskirts of Playa makes it possible to take a high-speed day trip to the colonial city of Valladolid or the Chichen Itza ruins without the long bus rides of the past. Mayakoba is also excellent for short stays because its internal boat and bike network means you never have to leave the complex to experience the jungle and sea.
Staying in Downtown

The Mahekal Beach Resort has a wonderful seafront location yet is still a short walk from downtown shops and restaurants.
Playa del Carmen has transformed from a sleepy fishing village into the vibrant heart of the Riviera Maya. Most of the action is centered in the downtown area, which I define as the grid between the beach and the main highway, stretching from the gated community of Playacar in the south up to the local favorite Punta Esmeralda beach in the north. This central hub is where you will find the highest concentration of hotels, from high-end boutiques to budget-friendly guesthouses. The town remains remarkably safe for travelers, though it is much busier than it was even five years ago. The arrival of the Tren Maya has made Downtown even more convenient as a base; the train station is located just west of the highway, making it easy to hop on a high-speed rail to Tulum, Cancun, or the colonial charm of Valladolid.
Downtown is perfect if you want to be within walking distance of everything. You don’t need a car here. The primary artery is Quinta Avenida (5th Avenue), a massive pedestrian street that runs for about 5 kilometers. I recommend sticking to the sections between Calle 2 and Calle 40 for the best mix of dining and shopping. For a more modern, upscale feel, head toward the Quinta Alegria Mall. If you are a light sleeper, be very careful about booking a hotel near Calle 12 Norte; this is the epicenter of the nightlife scene with massive clubs like Coco Bongo and Mandala pumping music until the early hours. For families or those wanting a quieter beach, the Playacar Phase 1 and Phase 2 areas offer much wider stretches of sand and a more relaxed, residential vibe while still being a 10 to 15-minute walk from the ferry pier.
The Best Hotels in Downtown
- Mahekal Beach Resort • (Hotel phone: +52 984 873 0611)
- Playacar Palace • (Hotel phone: +52 984 873 4960)
- Hyatt Vivid • (Hotel phone: +52 984 875 123)
- Hyatt Centric Playa del Carmen • (Formerly the Thompson. Hotel phone: +52 984 206 4800)
The Best Restaurants in Downtown Playa del Carmen
- Las Hijas de la Tostada • $$-$$$ • I love this spot for fresh seafood tostadas and a view of the Quinta Avenida crowds.
- Oh Lala! • $$$$ • Still the best choice for a high-end, intimate dinner. The service is exceptional.
- Ah Carbón! • $ • This is my go-to for authentic tacos al pastor. It’s no-frills but better than many of the expensive places on the main drag.
- Birria Tacos y Consome • $ • Essential for a quick, savory lunch of beef and bone marrow tacos.
- La Brocherie Rotisserie • $$ • A local favorite for rotisserie chicken. The pineapple marinade is unique and delicious.
Staying in North Playa del Carmen

Xcalacoco Beach in North Playa del Carmen, taken from Viceroy Riviera Maya.
As you move north of Punta Esmeralda toward the Xcalacoco area, the city noise fades away. This section of Playa is characterized by a mix of luxury all-inclusives and upscale residential developments. I recommend North Playa for travelers who want the amenities of a large resort but still want to be a short taxi ride or a 30-minute beach walk from the downtown dining scene. The beaches here are generally wider and less eroded than those in the center of town. It feels more secluded and “tropical” because many of the properties have preserved the surrounding jungle and mangroves. It is a much better area for a quiet evening on the sand than anywhere near the ferry pier.
The Best Hotels in North Playa del Carmen
- Viceroy Riviera Maya • (Hotel phone: +52 984 877 3000)
- Paradisus Playa del Carmen • (Hotel phone: +52 984 877 3900)
- Paradisus La Perla • (Hotel phone: +52 984 877 3900)
The Best Restaurants in North Playa del Carmen
- Los Asados de Patzcúaro • $$-$$$ • Great for those who want fantastic barbecued meats away from the tourist traps.
- XG Sabor Extra • $$-$$$ • My favorite breakfast spot in this area for traditional Mexican flavors.
Staying in Mayakoba

The beach at Mayakoba, taken from the Banyan Tree Resort.
Mayakoba is in a category of its own. It is a massive, ultra-luxury eco-development built into the mangroves and lagoons just north of the city. What makes this area special is how the resorts are integrated into the natural ecosystem. You can move between the different hotels via an electric canal boat (lancha) or by using the extensive network of bike paths. It is incredibly serene and offers a level of privacy you won’t find in Downtown. I love that you can see coatis, spider monkeys, and exotic birds just by walking from your room to breakfast.
While it is a self-contained world with its own PGA golf course and the “El Pueblito” village center, you are still only 15 to 20 minutes from the heart of Playa del Carmen by taxi. I suggest staying here if you want a true escape where the service is world-class and the environment is pristine. The beach at Mayakoba is one of the best-maintained in the region, and because it is private, you won’t be bothered by vendors or crowds.
The Best Hotels in Mayakoba
- Banyan Tree • (Hotel phone: +52 800 953 0565)
- Fairmont • (Hotel phone: +52 984 206 3000)
- Alila (formerly Andaz) • (Hotel phone: +52 984 149 1234)
- Grand Velas Riviera Maya • (Hotel phone: +52 322 226 8689) • Grand Velas is technically just south of the Mayakoba entrance but shares the same high-end feel.
The Best Restaurants near Mayakoba
- Koba Restaurant • $$$ • Good for a relaxed lunch overlooking the golf course.
- Cocina de Autor • $$$$ • This is a serious fine-dining experience. Reservations are a must, and be sure to check the dress code. It is one of the top culinary experiences in all of Mexico.
Staying in North Riviera Maya

The beach in front of El Dorado Royale in North Riviera Maya.
The stretch of coast between Playa del Carmen and Cancun is dominated by some of the most impressive all-inclusive resorts in the country. If you are staying here, you are likely looking for a “resort-focused” trip where you spend most of your time on-site. However, the charming fishing village of Puerto Morelos is a great exception. It has a much more laid-back, bohemian vibe than Playa or Cancun. The reef here is part of a protected National Marine Park, so the snorkeling is excellent and easily accessible from the beach.
Puerto Morelos is also home to great attractions like the Dr. Alfredo Barrera Marín Botanical Garden. For families, staying in this northern section is convenient because it cuts your travel time from the Cancun airport down to about 20 or 30 minutes. If you want a mix of luxury and a quiet town vibe, Puerto Morelos is the spot.
The Best Hotels in North Riviera Maya
- El Dorado Maroma • (Hotel phone: +52 984 206 3470)
- Blue Diamond • (Hotel phone: +52 984 206 4100)
- Generations Riviera Maya • (Hotel phone: +52 998 872 8030)
- El Dorado Royale • (Hotel phone: +52 998 872 8030)
- Valentin Imperial Maya • (Hotel phone: +52 984 206 3660)
The Best Restaurants in North Riviera Maya
- La Sirena • $$-$$$ • Great for live music and a rooftop view in Puerto Morelos.
- Doña Triny’s • $ • Authentic Mexican home cooking at its best.
Staying in South Riviera Maya

The awesome stretch of beach in front of Hotel Esencia.
South of Playa, the coast gets even more naturally beautiful. This is where you find the highest concentration of cenotes, including the famous Dos Ojos system. The beaches here, like Xpu-Ha and Akumal, are legendary for their soft sand and calm waters. Akumal is especially famous for its resident sea turtles. If you plan to snorkel with the turtles, please note that there are now strict conservation rules in place: you must wear a life jacket, keep a 2-meter distance, and in most areas, you are required to be with a certified guide to protect the ecosystem.
This area is also the gateway to the massive eco-adventure parks like Xcaret and Xel-Ha. If you want a vacation focused on nature, swimming in crystal-clear cenotes, and exploring the jungle, the South Riviera Maya is the best choice. The Tren Maya station in Tulum provides another easy connection point for exploring the ruins further south or heading back to Playa.
The Best Hotels in South Riviera Maya
- Hotel Esencia • (Hotel phone: +52 984 873 4830)
- Hotel Xcaret • (Hotel phone: +52 984 206 4805)
- Hard Rock Hotel • (Hotel phone: +52 984 875 1100)
- Grand Palladium Kantenah • (Hotel phone: +52 984 877 2100)
The Best Restaurants in South Riviera Maya
- La Buena Vida • $$ • My favorite beach bar in Akumal. The atmosphere is quintessential Riviera Maya and the “Maya Kiss” cocktail is a must-try.
- Imelda’s Ecocina • $ • For authentic Mayan and Yucatecan food in Akumal, this is the place. It’s simple, honest, and excellent.